Create Animated GIF With Photoshop

Audio Visual No Comments

Creating an animated GIF is pretty easy with Adobe Photoshop. I will show you how I created the animated eye that you see to the right, using instructions from Build Animated GIFs in Photoshop. The secret is to use Photoshop’s Animation window.

Note: I found other web instructions that recommend using a Timeline window, but I could not find such a feature in my Adobe Photoshop CS5 version.

Layers Galore

The first step is to create layers, one or more of which together will construct each animation frame. While I could construct each frame using just one layer each, I decided to separate out the static “Animate Me” eyebrow image into its own layer and to include that layer in every frame.

  1. Create a new Photoshop project.
  2. The project is created with a default background layer.
  3. Draw the eyebrow. In my case, I wrote the eyebrow text using the Typing Tool and then warped the text using the Arc style.

I drew the eye using an oval for the outer rim and a circle for the pupil. (I lost the original image so re-created it to the right below by horizontally flipping one of the partial eye image and combining. That’s why the lines look too thick.)

To animate the eye blinking, I subtracted and added arc lines as necessary.

  1. Create a new layer by using menu Layer, New, Layer…, and click Ok.
  2. Select the new layer.
  3. Draw the eye using a circle and an oval.
  4. Duplicate the eye layer using menu Layer, Duplicate Layer…, and click Ok.
  5. Edit the eye by subtracting and adding arc lines.
  6. Repeat the above to create additional eye layers as necessary.

Animation Frames

Open the Animation window by going to menu Window and selecting Animation. The Animation window will appear at the bottom and there will be one frame already existing.

  1. To create another frame, select the existing frame and then click on the page icon (“Duplicates selected frames”) to the left of the trash icon (“Deletes selected frames”) at the bottom of the Animation window.
  2. Repeat to create the number of frames you desire.
  3. Select each frame and then select the layer(s) you want to be visible in that frame.
  4. The number of second(s) under each frame indicates the delay before the animation moves to the next frame. Adjust those delay times accordingly.

Note: Selecting the frame determines what is visible on the screen (that is, whatever layers are selected as visible in that frame). Selecting the layer (in the Layer window) still determines which layer a graphical operation will affect. To avoid confusion, you might want to manually ensure that the layer you select is enabled for the frame selected.

Save that GIF

To save the project to an animated GIF file, use menu File, Save for Web & Devices…. I just accept the defaults and click Save.

Note: If you save using menu File, Save As…, and select Format as “CompuServe GIF (*.GIF)”, you will end up with a static GIF image (containing the layer selected in the frame selected), not an animated GIF.

To test the GIF file, open it in a browser. If you open it in the default image or photo viewer, you will only see the first frame and no animation.

For your reference, you can download my Photoshop project file, animate_me.psd, containing the eye animation above.

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Re-install MacPorts After MacOS Upgrade

Mac OS X No Comments

I upgraded from Mac OS X 10.10 Yosemite to macOS 10.12 Sierra. After that, any MacPorts command I ran returned the following error:

Error: Current platform "darwin 16" does not match expected platform "darwin 14"
Error: If you upgraded your OS, please follow the migration instructions:
OS platform mismatch
    while executing
"mportinit ui_options global_options global_variations"
Error: /opt/local/bin/port: Failed to initialize MacPorts, OS platform mismatch

The problem is that MacPorts is specific to a Mac OS X platform. The best way to fix this problem is to follow the Migrating a MacPorts installation guide.

Totally Clean Slate

MacPorts migration provides a “restore_ports.tcl” script to restore all the ports (a.k.a. packages) once you have upgraded MacPorts. However, I decided to start from a clean slate and only install ports as I needed them.

# Save list of installed ports (FYI for myself)
port -qv installed > ~/ports_installed.txt

# Save list of ports you manually installed (exclude dependency ports)
port installed requested > ~/ports_requested.txt

# Uninstall all installed ports
sudo port -f uninstall installed

# Clean any partially-completed builds
# Remove leftover build files (this should be done automatically already)
sudo rm -rf /opt/local/var/macports/build/*

# Remove download files
sudo rm -rf /opt/local/var/macports/distfiles/*

Note: I noticed that executables like svn (from subversion port) were left behind in /usr/bin and could still be used.

Partially Clean Slate

If you decide to keep your existing ports and to use the “restore_ports.tcl” script, you might consider cleaning out inactive packages:

# Get list of inactive ports you likely no longer need
# Alternative command: port echo inactive
port installed inactive

# Remove all of the inactive ports
sudo port uninstall inactive

Install macOS-specific MacPorts

Install the latest MacPorts for your macOS version:

  1. Install or upgrade to the latest version of Xcode Developer Tools (free from the Mac’s App Store) and run it once.
  2. Install the latest Command Line Developer Tools by running this command in the Terminal app:
    xcode-select --install
  3. Download and install the MacPorts package matching your Mac OS X version. It will overwrite the existing MacPorts installation.

Update MacPorts Configuration

The new MacPorts installer won’t modify the existing configuration file so you will need to update it manually. The updated configuration file “macports.conf.default” is located in the “/opt/local/etc/macports” directory. The old configuration file “macports.conf” is also in the same location.

Before overwriting the old file with the new, I recommend doing a file comparison:

cd /opt/local/etc/macports/
diff macports.conf macports.conf.default

Note: If you prefer a nice graphical user interface, you can use the FileMerge application which comes with Xcode. Just run FileMerge and input the paths to the two files to compare them.

There wasn’t any significant difference between the two files (beyond comments), but I went ahead and overwrote the old one with the new.

cd /opt/local/etc/macports/
sudo cp macports.conf.default macports.conf

Note: There are two other MacPorts configuration files, “variants.conf” and “sources.conf”, which the migration guide doesn’t mention. I compared them anyways and the only significant difference I found was in the “sources.conf” where the “rsync” value was different. I overwrote the “sources.conf” with the latest to ensure that everything is updated.

If you didn’t do a totally clean slate, you will want to follow the migration instructions on how to run the “restore_ports.tcl” script.

Some info above derived from:

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iPhone Missing From Windows 10 File Explorer

Mobile Devices, Windows No Comments

Under Windows 7, whenever I connected my iPhone, I would see a device drive appear in the File Explorer, which allowed me to manually copy photos from the iPhone to my computer. Under Windows 10, the device drive no longer appeared. I found the solution to this problem at iPhone doesn’t show up in Windows 10 File Explorer [Solved].

On my system, the cause is Windows 10 neglecting to install the “MTP USB Device” driver. MTP stands for Media Transfer Protocol, which Microsoft uses to allow access to files (like photos and videos) on iOS and Android devices. Under my Windows 10 machine, when I connect my iPhone, Windows 10 only installs the “Apple Mobile Device USB Driver” which iTunes uses. It does not install the “MTP USB Device” driver which File Explorer requires.

The solution is to manually install the “MTP USB Device” driver. This fix also worked for my iPad and iPod Touch.

Note: You may also have this problem under Windows 7 or 8. Or with an Android device. The steps below should still work.

Install MTP USB Device

To manually install the “MTP USB Device” driver:

  1. Connect the iPhone, iPad, or iPod to the Windows computer. Trust the computer if prompted to (only need to do this once when you first connect a new device).
  2. On the computer, run the “Device Manager” application.
  3. Open the “Universal Serial Bus controllers” section.
  4. Right-click on the “Apple Mobile Device USB Driver” and select “Update driver”. A dialog window will appear.
  5. Select “Browse my computer for driver software” and then “Let me pick from a list of available drivers on my computer”.
  6. Select the “MTP USB Device” driver in the “Show compatible hardware” listbox. Click Next.
  7. Once done, you will get a “Windows has successfully updated your drivers” message. Click Close to quit the dialog window.
  8. In the “Device Manager”, if you open “Portable Devices”, you will now see a new “MTP USB Device” driver listed. However, the device still doesn’t appear in the File Explorer and worse, the “Apple Mobile Device USB Driver” is gone (iTunes won’t show the attached device icon any longer).
  9. Disconnect and reconnect the iOS device. Windows will now load both the “Apple Mobile Device USB Driver” and “MTP USB Device” driver.
  10. The iOS device should now appear in the File Explorer under “This PC” and “Devices and drives”.

Note: If you check “Portable Devices” under the “Device Manager” again, you will now see the “Apple iPhone”, “Apple iPad”, or “Apple iPod” driver listed. The “MTP USB Driver” is renamed to the specific device type.

You should only need to manually install the “MTP USB Device” driver once for each new iOS device. Windows 10 should automatically load the “MTP USB Device” driver on subsequent connections.

Re-install MTP USB Device

I have seen a behavior when on a subsequent connection, Windows 10 did not successfully load the “MTP USB Device” for my iPhone. When I checked “Portable Devices” in the “Device Manager”, I saw the “Apple iPhone” driver with a caution icon, meaning it was in error state.

To fix the issue, I just right-clicked on the “Apple iPhone” and selected the “Update driver” option. And then I followed the instructions above from step 5 onward.

Hopefully your Windows 10 system does not have this problem. If it does, I hope the steps above will resolve your issue.

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Factory Image Flash a Nexus 5 Android Phone

Mobile Devices No Comments

I needed to re-image a Google Nexus 5 Android GSM smartphone with its stock factory image. Because I haven’t done this in a long while, I thought I would document what I did.

The instructions below should also work for the Google Pixel phone. I did the re-image using my Windows 10 desktop, but you can also do it on a Mac.

Note: Please backup your data because a factory image flash will destroy everything!

Install ADB and Fastboot

We need to install the software tools necessary to flash an Android phone. These are the Android Debug Bridge (adb), used to communicate with an Android device, and fastboot, used for writing directly to a device’s flash memory.

Thankfully, Google has separated these tools from the Android SDK into a smaller “SDK Platform Tools” package.

  1. Download the SDK Platform Tools package; I downloaded “”.
  2. Unzip to a directory, say “C:\Program Files\platform-tools”.
  3. Add that directory to the %PATH% environment variable.
  4. Launch a Command Prompt window and run “adb version”. I got “Android Debug Bridge version 1.0.39” as the response.

Enable USB Debugging

Enable USB debugging so adb can talk to the phone:

  1. On the phone, go to Settings, “About phone”, and scroll to the bottom until you see “Build number”.
  2. Click on the “Build number” seven times. You’ll see popups telling you how many times more to press to enable “Developer options”. (Ex: “You are now 3 steps away from being a developer.”)
  3. Once done (you’ll see a “You are now a developer!” popup message), go back to Settings and you will see a new menu “Developer options”. Click to go into it.
  4. Near the top, you will see an option “USB debugging”. Enable it.
  5. Plug the phone into the computer and answer “OK” when prompted with “Allow USB debugging?”. (Windows 10 was able to automatically find and install the Nexus 5 driver. If your operating system fails to do so, you may need to find and install the driver for your phone manually.)
  6. Open a Command Prompt window and run “adb devices”. It should list one device.

Note: You can see the status of and control how the USB connection behaves. On the connected phone, drag from the top, and you will see a message relating to the USB connection. If USB debugging is enabled, you will see the “USB debugging connected, Touch to disable USB debugging” message. If you disable USB, you will see a new “USB for charging, Touch for more options” message. You can change USB options to “File transfers” if you wish to browse files (such as pictures) located on the phone.

Find Factory Image

The hardest part of this process was finding the correct factory image to download for the Nexus 5. There were so many listed without any helpful instructions as to which image to download.

Here’s what I did:

  1. Locate Google’s Factory Images for Nexus and Pixel Devices page.
  2. Find the factory images for the “Nexus 5”, which is code-named “hammerhead”. (The “Nexus 5X” has code-name “bullhead”.)
  3. Locate the last image, which is the latest and greatest version, “6.0.1 (M4B30Z, Dec 2016)”. (“M4B30Z” and similar are build labels, not model numbers, as I originally thought. So any of them should work with the Nexus 5, though an older Nexus 5 image would prompt you to update the latest.)
  4. Unzip the downloaded “” file to any location; I just left the unzipped “hammerhead-m4b30z” folder in the Downloads folder.

Flash Factory Image

This is the easiest step because Google has provided a script with the factory image that does all the work.

  1. Open a Command Prompt window and change directory to the unzipped factory image folder.
  2. Run the “flash-all.bat” script. It only took 125 seconds to complete, ending with the message “finished. total time: 125.757s”.

The Nexus 5 then rebooted.

Note: It is recommended to do a data reset after a factory image flash. To do so, go to Settings on the phone, “Backup & reset”, and “Factory data reset”.

Need To Know

For your reading pleasure, below is the output of the “flash-all.bat” script:

C:\Users\username\Downloads\hammerhead-m4b30z> flash-all.bat
target reported max download size of 1073741824 bytes
sending 'bootloader' (3124 KB)...
OKAY [  0.316s]
writing 'bootloader'...
OKAY [  0.543s]
finished. total time: 0.863s
rebooting into bootloader...
OKAY [  0.100s]
finished. total time: 0.101s
target reported max download size of 1073741824 bytes
sending 'radio' (45489 KB)...
OKAY [  1.748s]
writing 'radio'...
OKAY [  3.130s]
finished. total time: 4.881s
rebooting into bootloader...
OKAY [  0.100s]
finished. total time: 0.102s
extracting android-info.txt (0 MB) to RAM...
extracting boot.img (8 MB) to disk... took 0.033s
target reported max download size of 1073741824 bytes
archive does not contain 'boot.sig'
archive does not contain 'dtbo.img'
archive does not contain 'dt.img'
extracting recovery.img (9 MB) to disk... took 0.061s
archive does not contain 'recovery.sig'
extracting system.img (996 MB) to disk... took 6.279s
archive does not contain 'system.sig'
archive does not contain 'vbmeta.img'
archive does not contain 'vendor.img'
wiping userdata...
mke2fs 1.43.3 (04-Sep-2016)
Creating filesystem with 7137786 4k blocks and 1785856 inodes
Filesystem UUID: b6135b46-f5a1-11e7-9dd3-33ea8476e3c7
Superblock backups stored on blocks:
        32768, 98304, 163840, 229376, 294912, 819200, 884736, 1605632, 2654208,

Allocating group tables: done
Writing inode tables: done
Creating journal (32768 blocks): done
Writing superblocks and filesystem accounting information: done

wiping cache...
mke2fs 1.43.3 (04-Sep-2016)
Creating filesystem with 179200 4k blocks and 44832 inodes
Filesystem UUID: b66edade-f5a1-11e7-be2f-2fbe1c3d8ae8
Superblock backups stored on blocks:
        32768, 98304, 163840

Allocating group tables: done
Writing inode tables: done
Creating journal (4096 blocks): done
Writing superblocks and filesystem accounting information: done

Bootloader Version...: HHZ20h
Baseband Version.....: M8974A-
Serial Number........: 04a0b345437de8e6
checking product...
OKAY [  0.100s]
checking version-bootloader...
OKAY [  0.098s]
checking version-baseband...
OKAY [  0.099s]
sending 'boot' (9156 KB)...
OKAY [  0.529s]
writing 'boot'...
OKAY [  0.780s]
sending 'recovery' (10014 KB)...
OKAY [  0.587s]
writing 'recovery'...
OKAY [  0.828s]
erasing 'system'...
OKAY [  0.988s]
sending 'system' (1020657 KB)...
OKAY [ 35.063s]
writing 'system'...
OKAY [ 69.580s]
erasing 'userdata'...
OKAY [ 14.754s]
sending 'userdata' (4416 KB)...
OKAY [  0.369s]
writing 'userdata'...
OKAY [  0.497s]
erasing 'cache'...
OKAY [  0.580s]
sending 'cache' (428 KB)...
OKAY [  0.229s]
writing 'cache'...
OKAY [  0.217s]

finished. total time: 125.757s
Press any key to exit...

For more details, I found this page, How to flash a factory image | Return to stock | Unroot your Nexus 5, very helpful.

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Make a Dumb TV Smart Using Roku and Plex

Audio Visual No Comments

My brother-in-law gave me his huge 65 inch LCD TV. Score! But it was a dumb TV with no Internet capability or apps support. And I didn’t have cable or a digital OTA (Over the Air) tuner. Fortunately, there were many ways to turn a dumb TV into a smart TV. I chose the Roku 2 XS 1080p Streaming Player. Why? Because someone was selling one for $20 on craigslist.

Once I owned the Roku 2 XS, I started to see why it was the best media player to purchase (mere-exposure effect or familiarity principle). You see, the Roku 2 XS has the best features of the Roku 3 (USB port, Bluetooth remote, SD card) while keeping the backward compatibility of supporting a composite AV (audio/video) output, in addition to HDMI. The USB port allows me to directly connect a USB flash drive or portable hard drive full of videos to the Roku. The Bluetooth remote means I can hide the Roku behind the TV and still be able to control it. Finally, I think the old TV only does 1080p, so the 1080p supported by Roku 2 XS is perfectly fine.

Though the Roku supported wireless Internet, I hooked it up using a wired LAN connection to avoid any possible lag in throughput (can’t hurt when streaming 1080p HD video). Once I finished attaching the Roku to the TV with a HDMI cable, it was time to power it on. Because I did a factory reset on the Roku, I had to pair the remote again by pressing the little purple button inside the remote’s battery compartment for 3 seconds. I created an account with Roku and added channels (Roku’s name for apps); for example, the YouTube, Netflix, and Amazon Video channels are the most popular if you have kids. (If you want to play videos from the SD card or USB port, you will need to install the Roku Media Player channel.)

The Roku has no off switch, so it is immediately ready to use (instead of booting up each time). I read that it will go to sleep after 30 minutes of inactivity. Make sure to always stop playing before turning off the TV though. Or just unplug the Roku.

Cast to Roku

Because Roku supports the DIAL (Discovery and Launch) protocol used by Chromecast, you can cast to it from YouTube on your Windows desktop, Macbook laptop, or smartphone. Just click on the cast icon in the YouTube player and select the Roku.

The YouTube cast function and YouTube Channel are both temperamental. Sometimes when I try to cast, I have to cast twice before the video would actually play on the Roku. Sometimes the YouTube player says it is casting but it isn’t, so I have to manually stop casting and redo the cast. Worse, sometimes the YouTube Channel crashes and I am knocked back to the Roku’s main home page.

On Windows, my YouTube player did not show the cast icon. The problem was caused by the new YouTube layout. To fix it, I had to go to back to the old layout by clicking on my YouTube user icon and selecting the “Restore old YouTube” option. The old layout correctly showed the cast icon. Strangely, when I switched back to the new layout (by browsing to, the new layout now showed the cast icon. I saw this behavior using the Chrome browser, so other browsers may not have this issue.

Plex Stream From Desktop

If you have kids, you might prefer to avoid swapping movie DVDs by ripping them all to video files (I recommend using the open source HandBrake utility). Putting the files on a portable USB hard drive and connecting it to the Roku will give you a library of entertainment to choose from.

In my case, I didn’t have a portable USB hard drive, so I decided to just stream the movies from my desktop. The Plex Media Server was the free and simple DIY solution. I downloaded it, install it, launch it, created an account, added a Movies library, and selected the folder where my movie files were. The Plex Media Server scanned the folder (and its sub-folders), added the movie files, and downloaded nice preview images and summaries for each movie. (If you add and remove movie files, you can tell Plex Media Server to rescan by clicking on the options “…” to the right of the Movies library and selecting the “Scan Library Files” command.)

The Plex Media Server runs as a local web server which your browser can connect to. The Plex Media Server’s user interface will appear in the browser when you double-click on the Plex icon in the Windows’ system tray or the Mac’s status menu. In addition, the local Plex Media Server integrates with the Plex website online to allow you to access your videos from anywhere. I didn’t see a need for global access and thought it was a security risk, so I disabled the “Remote Access” option under Settings.

On the Roku, I added the Plex Channel, and signed in. The Roku displayed a 4 character alphanumeric code and asked me to input it into the Plex Media Server’s Link Account page at Once that was accomplished, the Plex Channel listed my movies.

Note: When playing .mkv movie files, the Plex Channel may crash randomly. Plex Channel is solid when playing .mp4 or .avi files.

Subtitles For Plex

Plex supports subtitle files, such as .srt files. To see the subtitles on your TV, you will need to make two changes:

  • Configure the movie to use subtitles. On the Plex Media Server interface, click on the movie to see its details, and select the subtitle file to use.
  • Configure the Roku to display subtitles. On the Roku, go to main menu Settings, Captions, Captions mode, and select “On always” (the other choices are Off and “On replay”). This is a global setting affecting all movies.

On the Plex channel, you can enable or disable subtitles (under configuration) after selecting the movie but before playing it.

Note: Unfortunately, subtitles are unreliable. I’ve noticed the subtitles going away after watching some movies halfway through.

Strangely, the Plex Channel interface provides an option to delete the movie. If you select the delete command, the actual movie file on the desktop is deleted (the corresponding subtitle file is not deleted). Thankfully, if you delete by mistake, you can find the movie file in the the desktop’s Trash folder.

Automobile Roku

I thought about setting up the Roku in my sister’s minivan. Instead of dragging all the movie DVDs around and swapping them in and out, my sister could use the Roku and a portable USB hard drive. I could connect the Roku to the car’s composite AV input and power it from the provided outlet.

Unfortunately, I found that the Roku took 45-60 seconds to boot up and about 5-6 button clicks to play a movie file. When you have kids, you can’t afford to take a minute to load the movie. You just want to pop in the DVD, hit play, and start driving. Better yet, start driving and the DVD will automatically continue playing where it left off. The Roku did not have such a hands-off continue playing feature. So it was a no go.

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Securing WordPress

Linux No Comments

Recently, I received a couple of “Password Reset” request emails from my blog. I surmised that someone had tried to log into my WordPress administrative account, was unsuccessfully, and had resorted to using the “Lost your password?” link on the login page. Disconcertingly, the email indicated that my admin username was being used. I checked my blog and thankfully, it looked like nothing was wrong.

It was time to make my WordPress installation more secured.

Disable Password Reset

I decided to remove the “Lost your password?” link on the WordPress login page. I doubted that I would forget my admin password and even if I did, I could always go directly to the MySQL database to change it. Because I didn’t need to support more than one user (my admin user), I decided to use the simpler manual method from How to Remove the Password Reset / Change option from WordPress, instead of the Plainview Protect Passwords plugin.

Here are the steps to globally disable the password reset option:

  1. Create a file named “disable-password-reset.php” with the following content:
     * Plugin Name: Disable Password Reset
     * Description: Disable password reset functionality. Only users with administrator role will be able to change passwords from inside admin area.
     * Version: 1.0
     * Author: WPBeginner
     * Author URI:

    class Password_Reset_Removed
      function __construct()
        add_filter( 'show_password_fields', array( $this, 'disable' ) );
        add_filter( 'allow_password_reset', array( $this, 'disable' ) );
        add_filter( 'gettext',              array( $this, 'remove' ) );
      function disable()
        if ( is_admin() ) {
          $userdata = wp_get_current_user();
          $user = new WP_User($userdata->ID);
          if ( !empty( $user->roles ) && is_array( $user->roles ) && $user->roles[0] == 'administrator' )
            return true;
        return false;
      function remove($text)
        return str_replace( array('Lost your password?', 'Lost your password'), '', trim($text, '?') );
    $pass_reset_removed = new Password_Reset_Removed();
  2. Upload this file to your server’s WordPress plugins directory (“/var/www/wordpress/wp-content/plugins”).
  3. Log into WordPress, go to Plugins, and activate the “Disable Password Reset” plugin. The password reset option will now be disabled for all users, including administrators.

As a precaution, I also changed the admin username because it had been compromised. This was accomplished by creating a new admin user in WordPress, logging into the new user, and then deleting the old user.

Force Login to Require Secure HTTPS

When I configured my VPS (Virtual Private Server), I allowed the WordPress login page and administrative areas to be accessible by unsecured HTTP. So anyone sniffing data packets on the Internet could see, in plain text, the info my browser was sending to my server. This may explain how my admin username was known to whomever was attempting to access my WordPress site.

To prevent the above, I decided to force the WordPress login and administration pages to require secure HTTPS access. I found the simplest method at WordPress SSL Settings and How to Resolve Mixed Content Warnings, which was to enable the “FORCE_SSL_ADMIN” WordPress option.

Edit the WordPress configuration file (“/var/www/wordpress/wp-config.php”) and add the text below before the “/* That’s all, stop editing! Happy blogging. */” statement at the bottom of the file:

 * Secure (force HTTPS) entire wp-admin area
 * Note: Includes FORCE_SSL_LOGIN which secures login.php script

define('FORCE_SSL_ADMIN', true);

/* That's all, stop editing! Happy blogging. */

After the change above, even if I were to access the login page using unsecured HTTP, it would automatically redirect me to the secure HTTPS login page.

Your Connection Is Not Fully Secure

Normally, when accessing a website using secure HTTPS, the browser would display a padlock next to the URL to indicate that the connection is secure. (Chrome shows a yellow padlock before the URL. Internet Explorer shows a grey padlock after the URL.) However, when I accessed my WordPress site using secure HTTPS, the padlock was not shown. Under Chrome, when I clicked on the info icon next to the URL, a message “Your connection to this site is not fully secure” was displayed.

I tested my site using Why No Padlock? and it found two issues:

  1. Server supports SSLv3, may be vulnerable to POODLE attack. It is suggested to disable the SSLv3 protocol.
  2. Number of insecure items: 15. (A.k.a. the mixed content issue. All 15 items were unsecured HTTP image links.)

The first issue can be resolved by disabling the SSL v3 protocol:

  1. Edit the Nginx server block file (“/etc/nginx/sites-available/default”). Locate and add/modify the “ssl_protocols” directive like below (the first line is commented out):
    #       ssl_protocols SSLv3 TLSv1;
            ssl_protocols TLSv1.2 TLSv1.1 TLSv1;
  2. Restart the Nginx service so the changes above will take effect:
    sudo service nginx restart

Note: When I restarted Nginx, I saw warnings in the Nginx error log (“/var/log/nginx/error.log”) that looked like the following:

2017/09/02 01:15:24 [warn] 20631#0: duplicate value "TLSv1.2" in /etc/nginx/sites-enabled/mydomain:128
2017/09/02 01:15:24 [warn] 20631#0: duplicate value "TLSv1.1" in /etc/nginx/sites-enabled/mydomain:128
2017/09/02 01:15:24 [warn] 20631#0: duplicate value "TLSv1" in /etc/nginx/sites-enabled/mydomain:128

I found that it was caused by having two “ssl_protocols” directives in the Nginx server block file. Once I removed the duplicate directive, the warnings disappeared.

If you have more than one domain (resulting in more than one Nginx server block file), you can add the “ssl_protocols” directive to the Nginx configuration file (“/etc/nginx/nginx.conf”), instead of to all the server block files. Directives in the Nginx configuration file will apply to all server block files.

The second issue, “insecure items” or mixed content, was caused by unsecured image link URLs in each blog post’s content. Fixing it would require editing all image links to use the secured URL instead. I plan to replace the unsecured image link URLs with secured URLs over time. Eventually, I hope to see the padlock on secured HTTPS access to my WordPress site. (By default, WordPress inserts an image link using an unsecured URL. So you will need to edit the pasted image link manually to use the secured URL.)

Note: I was concerned that browsers would not cache images downloaded by secure HTTPS. However, after some research, I found out that modern browsers (as of 2010) will cache HTTPS content by default.

WordPress Debug Mode

If you haven’t already done so, you might consider temporarily enabling the WordPress debug mode to see if there are issues with the theme or plugins. Setting debug mode will return a wealth of log messages (all errors, notices, and warnings) that might point out potential issues with your WordPress installation.

To set debug mode, edit the WordPress configuration file (“/var/www/wordpress/wp-config.php”) and add the following directives before the “/* That’s all, stop editing! Happy blogging. */” statement:

// Enable WP_DEBUG mode
define( 'WP_DEBUG', true );

// Enable Debug logging to the /wp-content/debug.log file
define( 'WP_DEBUG_LOG', true );

// Disable display of errors and warnings inside the page HTML
define( 'WP_DEBUG_DISPLAY', false );
@ini_set( 'display_errors', 0 );

// Use dev versions of core JS and CSS files (only if modifying them)
define( 'SCRIPT_DEBUG', true );

/* That's all, stop editing! Happy blogging. */

Once you are satisfied, don’t forget to disable the debug mode because it may adversely affect the performance of your WordPress site.

// Enable WP_DEBUG mode
define( 'WP_DEBUG', false );

I found only notices and PHP strict warnings concerning some plugins, but thankfully, no errors.

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Windows Explorer Has Stopped Working

Windows No Comments

My brother-in-law has a problem with his Windows 7 laptop. He continually sees the pop-up error message, “Windows Explorer has stopped working”, and the desktop would flicker (killing all file explorer windows) as Windows restarts the process. He cannot do anything productive with the malfunctioning machine. He asks me to take a look.

When diagnosing and fixing a misbehaving Windows system, I do the following:

  1. Clean virus or spyware (aka malware) infection. Virus and spyware could cause Windows to act strangely by damaging critical system files.
  2. Prevent strange programs from running on startup.
  3. Fix file system issues and check Windows file system integrity.
  4. Disable and delete unknown browser plugins. Reset the homepage to a blank tab.
  5. Resolve Windows registry inconsistencies.
  6. Pull the latest Windows updates.

Note: Most of the instructions below are applicable to Windows 8 and Windows 10 with some minor differences.

Death to Viruses and Spyware

Before running the virus and spyware scans, I recommend deleting temporary files to speed up the whole process by reducing the number of files to scan. Launch “Disk Cleanup”, select the primary drive, click on the “Clean up system files” option, select the primary drive again (if prompted to), check all temporary files found, and delete them.

Note: Under the Disk Cleanup’s “More Options” tab, you can delete “System Restore and Shadow Copies”. I don’t recommend deleting System Restore images because that will remove the ability to restore Windows to an earlier point in time. Only do so if your Windows computer is working without any problems and you really want to reduce the virus scan time. (Virus scanners doing a full, not quick, scan will take significantly more time to scan through the System Restore files.)

I run Microsoft Security Essentials (known as Windows Defender in most versions of Windows), update it, and start a quick scan. Updating it successfully is a good sign because some viruses will cripple virus scanners pre-emptively. Security Essentials find no infection. (If you don’t already have a virus scanner installed, I recommend downloading the free Windows Security Essentials.)

I then launch Malwarebytes Anti-Malware, update it, and initiate the scan. Malwarebytes finds and cleans several malware infections. I don’t know whether those infections are serious or not; I’m just glad they are gone. The worst is knowing that even if you successfully clean a virus or spyware infection, it may not solve all the problems because they tend to leave damage behind.

Note: Malwarebytes Anti-Malware is free and requires that you manually run it. The paid premium version provides real-time, constant surveillance.

Because I want to make certain that the laptop is clean, I also run ComboFix. ComboFix is a powerful spyware scanner which I’ve used successfully in the past with Windows XP. ComboFix should only be used at your own risk, because it could potentially damage Windows further. If you decide to use ComboFix, download it from, not from or The latter will ironically give you a spyware-infected ComboFix version!

Thankfully, ComboFix completes running and does not destroy Windows 7. Unfortunately, the ComboFix log file is cryptic so while I’m fairly certain that it fixed something, I’m not exactly sure what.

The good news is that after a reboot, Windows no longer displays the “Windows Explorer has stopped working” popup message. So it looks very likely that spyware or malware caused the initial issue.

Say No to Startup Programs

Note: The System Configuration tool (msconfig) was removed from Windows 10. Its functions are incorporated into the Task Manager’s Startup and Services tabs.

Execute “msconfig” on Windows 7 to run the System Configuration tool and look for the Startup tab, which will list the programs launched at boot time. Google any program you don’t recognize. You may see remnant programs, with non-sensical names like “BDsad32Zm”, left by the virus or spyware — just uncheck them. (To reduce the startup time, I recommend unchecking any unnecessary programs like QuickTime and Adobe Reader. They supposedly speed up the launching of these programs, but at the cost of increasing startup time.)

Note: To reduce the startup time further, you can look at the Services tab and uncheck any unnecessary services, like “Distributed Link Tracking Client” (useful only if you link shared files across the network). Alternatively, instead of using “msconfig”, you could launch “services.msc” and disable the service or modify it to start manually, instead of automatically. Windows will start a manual service if necessary; for example, if an automatic service depends on it.

I do not find any strange startup programs on my brother-in-law’s laptop. Malwarebytes or ComboFix may have gotten rid of them already.

System Integrity Or Else

Corrupted files on the hard drive may cause Windows or programs to behave strangely. Thankfully, Windows provides two tools to diagnose this issue: a Check Disk tool (chkdsk) to fix general file system problems and a System File Checker (sfc) to verify Windows system files. (For more info on the System File Checker, see Use the System File Checker tool to repair missing or corrupted system files.)

To use the Check Disk tool:

  1. Click on the Windows start menu icon, input “cmd”, right-click on the “cmd.exe” or “Command Prompt” result, and select “Run as administrator” to launch the command prompt window with administrative privileges.
  2. Execute the following command (first line without the “>”):
    > chkdsk /f

    The type of the file system is NTFS.
    Cannot lock current drive.

    Chkdsk cannot run because the volume is in use by another
    process.  Would you like to schedule this volume to be
    checked the next time the system restarts? (Y/N)
  3. Input “Y” for Yes and reboot the laptop. The startup process will scan the hard drive for errors before running Windows.

Note: If you have a second hard drive, you can check it without rebooting; for example, by running the command “chkdsk /f d:” if you have a “D:\” drive.

To use the System File Checker:

  1. Run a “Command Prompt” as administrator (same steps as above).
  2. Execute this command:
    > sfc /scannow

    Beginning system scan.  This process will take some time.

    Beginning verification phase of system scan.
    Verification 100% complete.
    Windows Resource Protection found corrupt files but was unable to fix some of them.
    Details are included in the CBS.Log windir\Logs\CBS\CBS.log. For example

The Check Disk tool finds some file inconsistencies and fixes them. Unfortunately, though the System File Checker finds issues, it is not able to repair them all. This means that my brother-in-law’s laptop has some Windows system file corruption, which is bad.

The “CBS.log” file is large and dense. Microsoft recommends filtering it by running this command:

findstr /c:"[SR]" %windir%\Logs\CBS\CBS.log >"%userprofile%\Desktop\sfcdetails.txt"

The resulting “sfcdetails.txt” is not too helpful; it doesn’t show the filenames. Here is an excerpt:

2017-05-08 15:15:49, Info                  CSI    00000578 [SR] Verifying 100 (0x00000064) components
2017-05-08 15:15:49, Info                  CSI    00000579 [SR] Beginning Verify and Repair transaction
2017-05-08 15:15:49, Info                  CSI    0000057b [SR] Verify complete
2017-05-08 15:15:49, Info                  CSI    0000057c [SR] Verifying 100 (0x00000064) components
2017-05-08 15:15:49, Info                  CSI    0000057d [SR] Beginning Verify and Repair transaction
2017-05-08 15:15:49, Info                  CSI    00000580 [SR] Cannot verify component files for a3ba03adb219630fa0874057b9609115, Version = 6.1.7601.23418, pA = PROCESSOR_ARCHITECTURE_INTEL (0), Culture neutral, VersionScope = 1 nonSxS, PublicKeyToken = {l:8 b:31bf3856ad364e35}, Type neutral, TypeName neutral, PublicKey neutral, manifest is damaged (TRUE)
2017-05-08 15:15:49, Info                  CSI    00000582 [SR] Verify complete

Note: Unfortunately, I had used the Disk Cleanup tool to delete the System Restore images earlier. As a result, I am unable to revert to earlier Windows 7 versions which might not have had the system file corruption. I’m not sure, but the System File Checker might have been able to use files from the System Restore images to correct the issues above. Duh.

I’m hopeful that the Windows Update, which we will do later, will fix these corrupted files.

System File Checker To The Max

You may consider running the System File Checker in Windows safe mode. On boot up, hold the F8 key until you see the Advanced Boot Options menu and then select the “Safe Mode with Command Prompt” option. Doing so may allow the System File Checker to repair files that might be in use during a normal boot up.

Additionally, before running System File Checker, you may wish to ensure that temporary files belonging to it (under “PendingRenames” and “PendingDeletes”) are deleted. Those files are protected so you’ll also need to take ownership before you can delete them. Run the Command Prompt as administrator and issue these commands:

cd %windir%\winsxs\Temp\PendingRenames

# Take ownership of files
takeown /f *.*

# Grant file permissions to administrators (assuming you are one)

# Delete the files
del *.*

# Repeat to delete files under PendingDeletes (which is a hidden directory)
cd %windir%\winsxs\Temp\PendingRenames

Note: The Advanced Boot Options menu also has a “Repair Your Computer” item; however, when I select it, I get an error, “The boot selection failed because a required device is inaccessible”. I try inserting both a Windows 7 installation DVD and USB flash drive, but they are not accepted. I think this option depends on having a special repair partition, which is missing from the laptop.

Browser Plugins Be Gone

As a general matter of computer hygiene, I check both the Internet Explorer and Chrome browsers on the laptop. Specifically, I am looking for plugins, extensions, or add-ons that shouldn’t be there. When I find them, I disable and delete/uninstall them.

I also double-check that the default search provider and homepage have not been overwritten. For example, the unwanted SmartSearch plugin loves to set the search provider to Yahoo and the homepage location to its own search website.

I do not locate any unwanted browser plugins on the laptop.

Windows Registry Be Consistent

I install the free CCleaner tool, select the Registry tool, scan for issues, and fix them all. I recommend choosing the option to backup the registry before making changes. That way if it goes horribly wrong (but Windows still works), you’ll have a way to undo the action. Always reboot afterwards to check that the registry changes are okay.

The Windows registry serves as Window’s memory bank. Inconsistencies in it will cause Windows to misbehave. Corruption in it could cause Windows to stop running. As with ComboFix, use CCleaner at your own risk.

Note: CCleaner also offers a tool to find and delete temporary and unnecessary files. I usually use it in addition to the Window’s “Disk Cleanup” tool.

To The Latest And Greatest

I launch “Windows Update”, see that some updates are pending, and start their installation. Then I wait and wait. The progress bar shows zero progress. When I hover the mouse over the Windows Update icon in the system tray, the tooltip message “Windows is downloading updates (0% complete)” keeps appearing. I give up after 30 minutes.

After some research, I find that Microsoft had significantly changed how Windows Update worked on October 11, 2016. If the Windows Update is unable to update itself, then the “0% complete” issue could occur. I download and install the KB3172605 package according to Windows 7 Update solution.

I re-run the Windows Update and this time, the updates download and install successfully, except for one. The single failed update is the “2017-05 Security Monthly Quality Rollup for Windows 7 for x86-based System (KB4019264)” package. The error code is 80073712, which means that the Windows component store is corrupt.

Unfortunately, Windows Update couldn’t repair the corrupt Windows system files.

Ready To Repair

I find suggestions that the standalone System Update Readiness tool could be used to repair corrupt Windows system files. I download the version for 32-bit Windows 7 and run it. It is able to repair some files, but not all.

Note: Windows 7 comes with a built-in DISM (Deployment Image Servicing and Management) tool which contains some of the System Update Readiness tool’s functions. Though the Windows 7 DISM is not as powerful as the Windows 8 or 10 version, you can run it with “DISM /Online /Cleanup-Image /Scanhealth” (more powerful parameters like “/Restorehealth” will not work under Windows 7). I still decid to use the standalone System Update Readiness tool instead.

Thankfully, the System Update Readiness tool’s log file, “%windir%\Logs\CheckSUR.log”, is very readable and lists the un-repairable files at the end.

Unavailable repair files:

Following instructions from How to fix errors found in the CheckSUR.log, I download the packages for KB3138612 (Windows6.1-KB3138612-x86.msu) and KB3156017 (Windows6.1-KB3156017-x86.msu), and place them in the newly-created “%WinDir%\Temp\CheckSUR\Packages” folder.

I re-run the System Update Readiness tool. It repairs the corrupted files belonging to those packages. The resulting log now only shows the corrupted manifest files:

Unavailable repair files:

Unfortunately, I am unable to find a source for the manifest files online or otherwise. My friend has a Windows 7 desktop, but his installation is 64-bit and I need the 32-bit versions.

Upgrade To Windows 7 For The Win

When the System File Checker failed, I was afraid I would have to do it. I fought it, but in the end, it looks like I need to do an in-place upgrade of Windows 7. Effectively, re-install Windows 7 on top of itself. This “upgrade” should replace the corrupted files, while preserving everything else.

Note: I thought that I might avoid re-installing Windows 7 by just re-installing the Service Pack 1 (in the hope that it would be sufficient to replace the corrupted files). Unfortunately, when I attempt to install the Service Pack 1, it fails with a cryptic zero file termination error.

To perform an in-place upgrade, do the following:

  1. Make sure you have the Windows 7 product key!
  2. Run Windows 7 as normal. Log in with an administrator account.
  3. Disable any virus or spyware scanner. To disable Microsoft Security Essentials, go to Settings, Real-time protection, uncheck the “Turn on real-time protection (recommended)” option, and click on the “Save changes” button.
  4. Insert a bootable USB flash drive containing the Windows 7 Professional with SP1 32-bit installer (see instructions on how to create one). Or if you prefer, insert the Windows 7 install DVD.
  5. Run the “setup.exe” on the USB flash drive (or DVD) and click on the “Install now” button.
  6. Select the “Go online to get the latest updates for installation (recommended)” option. (If you don’t have Internet access, you’ll need to choose the second option, “Do not get the latest updates for installation”.)
  7. Accept the license terms and select the “Upgrade” option.
  8. Sit back, relax, and wait. My brother-in-law’s laptop takes almost an hour to do the in-place upgrade. I observed the following: 20 minutes, reboot, 20 minutes, reboot, 5 minutes, reboot, chkdsk, and reboot.
  9. After the final reboot, you will be prompted to enter the Windows 7 product key. Input the product key.
  10. Select the recommended defaults in the following two screens. You’ll then see the normal Windows 7 login screen.
  11. Log in, activate the Windows 7 product key, and re-enable the virus scanner.

After the “upgrade”, I run “Windows Update”. After a couple of minutes, it says “133 important updates are available”. I was afraid of that — looks like I need to install all the updates since Service Pack 1. Two hours later (after 133 updates, reboot, 59 updates, reboot, 3 updates, reboot, 1 update, and reboot), all the updates are installed successfully.

Back to the Past

Over the next hour, two more updates are found and installed. Then an “Internet Explorer 11 for Windows 7” update appears which fails to install. What?!

I run the Check Disk (chkdsk) tool. Unexpectedly, it finds some file index errors and correct them all. I run the System Update Readiness tool. It finds some issues and fixes them all. I run the System File Checker (sfc). It finds problems and complains “Windows Resource Protection found corrupt files but was unable to fix some of them”. Uh oh, it’s the same problem.

I filter the System File Checker’s log file and one log statement says that the “mvc80JPN.dll” file is corrupt. That file belongs to Microsoft Visual Studio 2005. I download and install the Microsoft Visual Studio 2005 runtime, but it does not correct the file. I am not able to find another source online. I am stuck at the same dead end.

Having no choice, I hide the “Internet Explorer 11” update. The “Internet Explorer 10” update appears, it fails to install, and I hide it also. Looks like all Internet Explorer versions depend on the corrupt “mvc80JPN.dll” file.

Over the next day, two dozen updates show up, including the “2017-05 Security Monthly Quality Rollup for Windows 7 for x86-based System (KB4019264)” update. All of them download and install successfully. Eventually, no new updates appear.

For now, my brother-in-law can live without the latest Windows Explorer version. He can use the existing Internet Explorer 8 or the latest Chrome browser. If he uses Internet Explorer 8, he should be okay if he avoids Japanese websites; he doesn’t read Japanese so I don’t think that it will be a problem.

Note: If and when my brother-in-law next encounters a major issue with his Windows 7 laptop, I will probably just do a fresh installation of Windows 10 on it.

And we are done. I hope the above will help you to solve your “Windows Explorer has stopped working” error or other Windows problems.

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Install macOS Sierra Using Bootable USB Flash Drive

Mac OS X No Comments

To perform a clean installation of macOS Sierra (basically, Mac OS X 10.12), I recommend using a bootable USB flash drive containing the macOS Sierra installer. Below are the steps I took to create the bootable USB flash drive and how I used it to install macOS Sierra.

Note: The macOS Sierra Disk Utility and installer appears to be more buggy and much slower than previous versions. The best advice for installing macOS Sierra is to try again and be very patient (if you expect an operation to complete in 5 minutes, then give it at least 50 minutes).

Download macOS Sierra Installer

The macOS Sierra installer is available from the Mac App Store. Run the “App Store” application, search for “macOS Sierra”, and download it. It will save the installer as an “/Applications/Install macOS” file (about 4.97GB in size).

Note: If you run the macOS Sierra installer to upgrade your Mac, the downloaded file will be deleted automatically after the upgrade is completed. To keep that file, you will want to move it out of the Applications folder so it won’t be deleted after an upgrade. Launch the “Terminal” application and run this command to move the downloaded installer to your user’s “Downloads” folder:

sudo mv /Applications/Install\ macOS\ ~/Downloads/

If you are paranoid (doesn’t hurt), you can verify that the installer file was downloaded correctly by verify its checksum. Run the “Terminal” application and this command:

hdiutil verify /Applications/Install\ macOS\

# If successful, the last output line should read:
# hdiutil: verify: checksum of "/Applications/Install macOS" is VALID

Format USB Flash Drive

The macOS Sierra installer takes up 5.1GB of space on the USB flash drive, so you will need a flash drive with a capacity of 8GB or greater.

Note: If the flash drive is mounted under “/Volumes” successfully when you plug it in, you can skip the following steps to reformat the flash drive. This is because the script we run to create the bootable drive will reformat the flash drive as an initial step. Because I am paranoid, I recommend reformatting the USB flash drive manually anyhow.

Format the USB flash drive using these steps:

  1. Plug in the USB flash drive to your Mac.
  2. Launch the “Disk Utility” application.
  3. On the left-hand pane, select the USB drive (not the partition under it, if any).
  4. Click on the “Erase” tab (or button at the top).
    1. Input a name like “Sierra” (this name will be overwritten later).
    2. Select “Mac OS Extended (Journaled)” for “Format”.
    3. Select “Master Boot Record” for “Scheme”.
    4. Click the “Erase…” button at the bottom. Click the “Erase” button in the warning popup dialog if you get one.
      • The format operation may take several minutes to complete. (USB 2.0 and large capacity drives will take longer.) After the format completes, the partition will be mounted under “/Volumes/Sierra” (or whatever name you selected above).
      • Note: Under macOS Sierra, the Erase function will fail if the USB drive’s partition is mounted. You can manually unmount the partition before running Erase. Or you can run Erase twice; the first time will unmount the partition and fail, and the second time will actually do the format (which will succeed).
  5. Close the “Disk Utility” application.

Create Bootable USB Flash Drive Installer

To create the bootable USB macOS Sierra installer, run the “Terminal” application and this command:

# The --volume value is the mounted USB flash drive partition; in this case, named /Volumes/Sierra

sudo /Applications/Install\ macOS\ --volume /Volumes/Sierra --applicationpath /Applications/Install\ macOS\ --nointeraction

# You will be prompted for your user's administrative password.

The “createinstallmedia” program will erase the USB flash drive, create a new partition named “Install macOS Sierra”, and copy the installation files to that partition. The output will look like:

Erasing Disk: 0%... 10%... 20%... 30%...100%...
Copying installer files to disk...
Copy complete.
Making disk bootable...
Copying boot files...
Copy complete.

The program will pause at the “Copying installer files to disk…” output line above. This step took 20-30 minutes with my Kingston 16GB USB 2.0 flash drive. Yours may take a shorter or longer time. I recommend giving it at least an hour, maybe two, before giving up.

Note: Mac hardware is very finicky about USB flash drives. Initially, I used a Corsair 32GB USB 3.0 drive; however, when I held down the Option key to try to boot with it, the Mac would freeze with a black startup screen. The Kingston 16GB USB 2.0 drive did not have this problem. So if you enounter issues (when erasing and copying) or weirdness (when booting), consider changing to another brand of USB flash drive. If you don’t have another drive, consider at least testing the flash drive to make sure it is not bad or corrupted (“First Aid” in “Disk Utility” is the minimum; google for more powerful tools).

Boot With USB Flash Drive

Note: I recommending connecting the Mac to its AC power adapter before beginning the macOS Sierra installation. The installation may take a long time (an hour or more) and you don’t want the battery to die in the middle.

To boot a Mac with the USB flash drive:

  1. Shutdown the Mac.
  2. Insert the USB flash drive.
  3. While holding the “option/alt” key down, turn on the Mac to display the boot Startup Manager.
  4. You should see one or more icons, one of which should be called “Install macOS Sierra” for the USB flash drive. (The internal hard drive may not be visible if it does not have a valid, bootable partition installed.)
    • Note: If you don’t see the USB flash drive’s “Install macOS Sierra”, try removing and re-inserting the USB flash drive while viewing the Startup Manager screen. The USB flash drive should then appear after a few seconds.
  5. Select the “Install macOS Sierra” (with left/right arrow keys) and hit the “return/enter” key to boot from the USB flash drive.

It may take 5-10 minutes or longer to load the installer from the USB flash drive. Sometimes the progress bar may appear to be frozen… just be patient. I would give it at least 30-60 minutes to load before giving up.

Format the Hard Drive

When the installer finishes loading, you will see a “macOS Utilities” window appear. Do the following to format the internal hard drive:

  1. Click on the “Disk Utility” option and click the “Continue” button on the bottom to launch the “Disk Utility” application.
  2. On the left-hand pane, select the hard drive (not the partition under it, if any).
  3. Click on the “Erase” button at the top.
    1. Input a name like “macOS”.
    2. Select “Mac OS Extended (Journaled)” for “Format”.
    3. Select “GUID Partition Map” for “Scheme”.
    4. Click the “Erase…” button at the bottom.
      • For SSD (Solid State Drive), the format operation may take less than a minute to complete. For mechanical hard drive, it may several minutes to hours, depending upon the size, speed, and condition of your hard drive.
      • Note: Again, the Erase function will fail if the hard drive’s partition is mounted. You can manually unmount the partition before running Erase. Or you can run Erase twice; the first time will unmount the partition and fail, and the second time will actually do the format (which will succeed).
  4. Close the “Disk Utility” application.

Note: Now and then, I noticed the output of the Erase seems to erroneously double the size of the hard drive. For a 128GB hard drive, the graph shows 120.88GB macOS (in blue) and 120.37 GB Unformatted (in red). I think it is just a user interface bug because when I close Disk Utility and re-open it, the graph then only shows the 120.88GB macOS (in blue).

Install macOS Sierra

Back at the “macOS Utilities” window, do the following to begin the macOS Sierra installation process:

  1. Click on the “Install macOS” option and click the “Continue” button.
  2. The “macOS Sierra” installer’s splash screen will appear. Click the “Continue” button.
  3. Click on the “Agree” button to agree to the license. A popup confirmation window will appear; click on the popup’s “Agree” button.
  4. Select the hard drive and click the “Install” button.

Note: You may encounter strange hardware behavior. On my 13 inch Macbook Pro Retina, the macOS Sierra installer turned the fan on to maximum for the whole duration of the installation. Thankfully, once it finished and rebooted, the fan turned off and stayed off.

The macOS Sierra installer tries to be helpful by telling you how long it will take. Unfortunately, it lies. You should take whatever remaining time it tells you and multiple by 10 (for minutes) or 100 (for seconds). If it says “6 minutes remaining”, that could mean 60 minutes or one hour remaining. Worse, if it says “6 seconds remaining”, you may be staring at that message for 600 seconds or one hour.

The best solution is to be patient. Go grab a bite to eat and watch a movie. Take a long nap or better yet, sleep your 8 hours. I would wait at least 4 hours before giving up.

Note: You can display the installer’s log window (using the menu or pressing Cmd+L). I didn’t find this helpful at all. Even for a successful install, numerous errors are logged; I don’t know what is a critical or non-critical error. And often, you won’t see a progress/status log output for a long time, easily 20-30 minutes. Not seeing any new log statements does not mean that the installer froze. So the logs didn’t do anything for me.

What Does Giving Up Mean?

Giving up means you have accepted defeat. The next step is to retreat and try again. Some suggestions on how to proceed:

  • Reset your Mac by doing the following:
    1. Reset the SMC (see step 3 under the “Reset the SMC on Mac notebook computers” section).
    2. Reset the NVRAM (aka PRAM).
    3. Run the Apple Hardware Diagnostic or Test to make sure you don’t have a hardware failure.
    4. Finally, retry the macOS Sierra install.
  • Use a different USB port on the Mac.
  • Use another brand of USB flash drive.
  • Delete and re-download the macOS Sierra installer (especially if you downloaded it a long while ago). Even if the checksum is okay, you may want to re-download in case there is a newer version of the installer with a bug fix for your very problem.
  • Download an older Mac OS X version, say Mac OS X 10.11 El Capitan, install that, and then upgrade to macOS Sierra. If you know the Mac OS X version which came with your Mac originally, consider downloading (if you still have access) and installing that version first.
  • Use the Mac Recovery System to download and install the original OS version that came with your Mac. Then upgrade from that to macOS Sierra.
  • Buy a more recent model Mac (at most a couple of years old). It may be that your current Mac is too old or slow to support macOS Sierra. It’s okay to keep running an old Mac OS version. (For example, if I had a Core 2 Duo Mac, I would not run anything later than Mac OS X 10.9 Mavericks on it.)

Hopefully, this post will help you to do a fresh installation of macOS Sierra.

Some info above taken from:

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Outdoor Home Video Surveillance With CleverLoop

Hardware No Comments

candace_flynnMy Dad was concerned. He thought he heard noises from the backyard and maybe saw some movement there at night. My Dad grows fruit trees and vegetables, which might attract intruders. His neighborhood is not the safest place; his house had recently been burglarized. He wanted a way to check that the perimeter was safe before leaving the house. The obvious answer, besides moving away, was an outdoor video surveillance system.

After days of research, I settled on the CleverLoop Smart Home Security System. CleverLoop is expensive. I could get video systems (especially coaxial ones) with more cameras for significantly less. However, my primary concern is usability. My Dad is going to use it so it has to be very easy to use.

CleverLoop’s selling point is usability, implemented by their mobile user interface and smart backend (a base station device is included with the cameras). They admit that their cameras are the same generic ones made in China as the other video surveillance systems use. Hardware is not what CleverLoop is competing on, it is software. CleverLoop’s mobile phone app (for iPhone or Android) looked to be more user friendly and feature rich than the competitors’ versions.

Here is how CleverLoop did against my selection criteria, in prioritized order:

  1. User-friendly interface – CleverLoop mobile phone app looks easy to use
  2. Accessible from anywhere over Internet – Dad wanted to check the video feeds when he is away from the house
  3. Decent video quality – CleverLoop can support 720p HD (High Definition)
  4. Night vision mode – automatic IR (infrared) night vision
  5. Motion detection and alerts – CleverLoop’s base station handles this
  6. No monthly fee – free CleverLoop plan includes multiple users and backs up alerts to the cloud for 7 days
  7. Wireless – all CleverLoop cameras are wireless, but we ended up not using this function

When I was researching, CleverLoop was selling a kit containing 3 outdoor cameras. At the time, the base station only supported 3 cameras. This was a problem because a house is usually square shaped and I needed 4 cameras to cover the 4 sides. Thankfully, when I was ready to buy, CleverLoop offered a kit containing 4 outdoor cameras. A camera at each corner of the house looking down each side will cover the whole perimeter of the house, albeit with blind spots under each camera. I supposed that they had updated the base station software to support 4 cameras, instead of 3.

What to Buy

Before purchasing an outdoor video surveillance system, you must decide on the type of wiring because that is the hardest part of the installation. I had decided that the most future proof wiring is PoE (Power over Ethernet) Cat6 (Category 6) Ethernet cable. PoE reduces installation to running just one cable conveying both power and data. The Cat6 Ethernet cable will support higher data rates for when more powerful cameras become available. If I use a coaxial or non-PoE Ethernet cable, I would need to run a second cable for the power. Trust me on using a PoE cable, because you don’t want to have to drill a second extra hole through two or more plywood layers (common for exterior walls).

While CleverLoop does not support PoE, there is a way to simulate it. Basically, use adapters, passive PoE injectors and splitters, to feed both data (non-PoE Ethernet cable) and power through the “PoE” Ethernet cable. To protect the PoE adapters from the elements, you can use an outdoor electrical outlet cover box. This very helpful Youtube video, Installing CleverLoop Outdoor IP Camera, was my installation bible. CleverLoop has a support page, Powering an outdoor camera using Power-over-Ethernet (PoE), that references the video along with useful pictures of the PoE injector and splitter wiring.

In addition to ordering the CleverLoop Security System with 4 Outdoor Cameras, I purchased the following for the installation:

  • 500 ft of Cat6 Ethernet Cable (from Amazon). I think I used 100-150 feet at best.
  • 100 Cat6 RJ45 cable connectors (from Amazon). Maybe used a dozen.
  • RJ45 Crimp, Cut, and Strip Tool (from Amazon). Used to cut the Cat6 Ethernet cable and crimp the RJ45 connectors onto the cable ends.
  • 4 Passive PoE Injector and Splitter Kits with 5.5×2.1mm DC Connector (from Amazon). Double-check that the splitters and injectors have 5.5×2.1mm DC connectors because that is what CleverLoop cameras use.
  • 4 Weatherproof Outlet Covers (from Home Depot; Bell Outdoor Weatherproof In-Use Cover for $8.44 each). Get the 2 inches thick cover, not the 1 inch thick cover; you’ll need the extra space to hold the PoE splitter, Cat6 Ethernet cable, and CleverLoop Ethernet data and power cables.

cleverloop_outlet_coverI ordered way more Cat6 Ethernet cable and RJ45 connectors than I needed. You can safely order much less, depending upon the size of your house.

If I had to do the installation again, I would also purchase a Network Cable RJ45 Tester (like this one from Amazon). The tester can determine whether the RJ45 connectors are crimped onto the ends of the Ethernet cable correctly or not. Instead, I used an Internet-enabled router and my Macbook to test the cable, which was very inconvenient.

Besides the above, you will probably need a power drill with a long drill bit (one foot or longer). The external frame on my Dad’s house under the roof line (where we placed the cameras) consisted of two 2×6 planks with an inch spacing between. The long drill bit was necessary to punch an Ethernet cable-sized hole all the way through.

Drill, Baby, Drill

After everything arrived, I reserved a weekend to complete the installation. The idea was to run the Cat6 Ethernet cables in the attic and drill holes from the attic to the outside at each corner of the house. I didn’t look forward to working in the hot and dirty attic. Thankfully, my older brother volunteered to do the cabling and drilling.

It took my brother the better part of the first day to drill the necessary holes and to run the cables, though with a long break in the middle. He had to drive home to get his 1.5 feet long drill bit and disposable coveralls (for getting into tight, dirty corners filled with insulation) once he realized both were necessary.

I crimped the RJ45 connectors onto the ends of the Cat6 Ethernet cables and tested them; I only had to redo 5 connectors. When installing the RJ45 connectors, the sequence of color wires needs to be the same at both ends. I found this page, Making Ethernet Cables – Tricks of the Trade, helpful and followed the sequence of colors that he used to make a straight through Ethernet cable.

On the second day, my brother mounted the cameras and outlet covers (containing the PoE splitters, assorted Ethernet cables, and CleverLoop power cables). Because the drilled holes, cameras and outlet covers were located under the eaves, he did not bother to waterproof the drilled holes (the Ethernet cables fit the holes quite snuggly). He also didn’t bother arranging drip loops for all the cables coming into and leaving from the outlet covers.

Tip: When inserting the cables and adapters into the outlet cover, make sure not to put a bend in the Cat6 cable ends that you made. My brother jammed everything in and within a year, the tension caused two of the four RJ45 connectors to fail. I had to replace them. Thankfully, I had already purchased a Network Cable RJ45 Tester, which made the verification process smoother.

In the attic, the Cat6 Ethernet cables from each camera met at a point above where my Dad’s Internet router was located. We tried to run a Cat6 Ethernet cable down the wall to the router, but a horizonal wood frame member prevented it. (Makes no sense; who would put a solid, horizontal plank of wood in the middle of an interior wall? Even fish tape would not have helped in this scenario!) We ended up drilling a hole in the ceiling close to the wall and running the Cat6 Ethernet cable down the wall to the router. It’s a little ugly, but the alternative, ripping out the dry wall, is even more undesirable.

Good thing I had a spare 5-port Ethernet switch; otherwise, I would have had to purchase one. In the attic, I connected all the camera’s Cat6 Ethernet cables to the switch and then the switch to the Internet router. Thankfully the attic had an outlet sockets nearby because I needed to plug in all the CleverLoop cameras’ power bricks (I used two power strips) and connect them to the PoE injectors, and then the PoE injectors to the Cat6 Ethernet cables. In the end, I ended up with a rat’s nest of cables, PoE injectors, and power bricks. I put the whole pile on a sheet of wood to prevent any contact with the attic’s insulation material.

Tip: I recommend running all the Cat6 Ethernet cables down into your air conditioned house. During the summer, the attic becomes so hot that I’m concerned that the Ethernet switch and power bricks may not last long. (Update: The Ethernet switch survived two summers only.)

Unfortunately, the cameras did not have any power indicators. (Though, if it was at night, I might have been able to see the IR LEDs light up.) Even worse, the camera took up to 5 minutes to come online (for it to be accessible by IP address) and to start streaming video. (The CleverLoop manual says it takes 90 seconds to boot up the camera.) Initially, I thought that the passive PoE injectors and splitters didn’t work because the Cat6 Ethernet cables were too long (one ran over 50 feet in length). I re-tested the longest Cat6 Ethernet cable and double-checked that there were no loose connections. Thankfully, one camera’s IP address appeared on my router’s client list (minutes had past during my debugging) and slowly the rest came online. Everything was fine; I just needed to be patient.

CleverLoop App

I connected the CleverLoop base station directly to the router. I installed the CleverLoop app onto my iPhone, created an account, and scanned the QR code at the bottom of the base station. In the CleverLoop app, I added the four cameras and started seeing their video streams (have to view each camera and click the play icon).

Now that we could see what the cameras were seeing, my brother made final adjustments to the cameras’ positions with my Dad’s input. Be careful when adjusting the positioning screws! Because the camera case is plastic, too much force could easily strip the screw holes. My brother did strip one of the positioning screw holes. He fixed it by screwing in an even larger screw.

When it got dark, the cameras automatically switched to black-and-white IR night vision mode. I was impressed by the night vision; I was able to see pretty far and the video was clearer than expected.

In the morning, one camera had an “Access Denied” error. And a second camera was still stuck in black-and-white IR mode. Rebooting the two cameras, removing and re-adding them did not fix the problem. As common with software, it turned out the cameras needed firmware updates to eliminate these and other bugs.

Tip: To reboot a camera, I can open up the camera’s outlet cover and disconnect the camera’s power cord from the PoE splitter. This is a lot easier than going into the attic, locating the particular camera’s Cat6 Ethernet cable and disconnecting its power plug from the PoE injector.

Per the CleverLoop support page, Check your camera firmware version (For X series indoor camera and outdoor camera only), I upgraded all the cameras’ firmwares to the latest recommended version. Note that you cannot upgrade directly to the latest version, you must upgrade incrementally. For example, I upgraded from version to, and then from to (latest version).

Upgrading to the latest firmware fixed both the “Access Denied” and stuck in black-and-white IR mode errors. And then 10 minutes after the upgrades, all cameras went offline (inaccessible by the CleverLoop app or browser). I had to power all cameras off and on to get them back. So, I recommend that you always manually reboot the camera after a firmware update.

Tip: You can browse to the camera’s IP address and view its video feed in the browser. The default username and password is “admin” and “123456”. On my Chrome browser running on Windows 7, I had to select “view video -Mode 2” (which uses Adobe Flash) to see the streaming video feed. Selecting “view video -Mode 1” (which uses “application/x-hyplayer” and QuickTime Player) did not work.

Video Quality

By default, the cameras are set to stream SD (Standard Definition 480p or 640×480 pixels) video quality. On a smartphone’s small screen, SD video looks pretty sharp. I did enable the 720p HD video on the cameras and only saw a slight improvement in quality on my iPhone 5’s tiny screen (it could be my imagination). I was more concerned about overwhelming the Internet connection’s upload bandwidth (for streaming over the Internet) so I changed it back to SD quality. So far, no complaints about video quality from Dad, who uses an iPhone 6 Plus.

Multiple Users

When I first installed the CleverLoop app, CleverLoop allowed multiple users to log in using the same account. So both my Dad and my sister (who lives with our father and has an Android phone) used the same account. A month later, that was no longer allowed. Logging into an account would log out anyone currently logged into that account. My sister had to create a new Cleverloop account and then add the base station (by scanning the QR code at the bottom of the base station). Thankfully, she didn’t need to re-add the cameras.

I think that CleverLoop disallowed account sharing in order to better support the Geo-Fencing function (automatically arms the motion detection system when your smartphone leaves the home location). However, because my Dad wanted alerts regardless of whether he was home or not, I had disabled the Geo-Fencing feature.

Alerts vs Movements

At first, I was confused by the movement and alert notifications. After reading up on it, I learned that we needed to train the base station to distinguished between harmless movements (like a branch waving in the wind) and important alerts (an intruder at the door). We are expected to view the video clip attached to each notification. And if we don’t agree with the classification (movement or alert), we can inform the system so by clicking on the “This should be an alert/movement” text at the bottom of the video feed.

cleverloop_motion_detectionTo eliminate the clutter caused by many notifications, you can manually delete the alerts and movements. There is a delete button that you can press when viewing the movement or alert. Additionally, there is an batch action (the top-right pencil icon when viewing a particular camera) that allows you to select multiple notifications for removal.

You can fine-tune the motion detection by marking areas of the video feed for analysis. Go to camera settings (the top-right gear icon when viewing a particular camera) and select “Fine-tune Smart Detection”. You can create up to 3 rectangular areas (a.k.a. hotspots) for motion detection and analysis. The parts of the video outside of the hotspots are not analyzed.

One major problem I see with the motion detection video clips is that the first few seconds are not shown. So, if you have someone who enters the video feed and exits quickly, the video clip won’t show that person. For example, when someone comes to the front door, drops off a package, and leaves, all I see in the video clip is a part of his back or his shadow as he is leaving. This is a known problem with a known solution called video pre-buffering. Basically, the system records continuously and when motion is detected, the generated video clip includes the previous 5-10 seconds. Hopefully, the CleverLoop base station will be updated to do pre-buffering soon.

Wireless Not Needed

When my Dad first asked about video surveillance for the backyard, he mentioned putting a camera on the detached garage and pointing it at the back of the house. Because I didn’t want to run an Ethernet cable from the house to the detached garage, I decided that a wireless camera was a necessary requirement.

Given a choice, I would prefer to avoid a wireless solution. Having a camera constantly streaming video across a wireless connection does not sound like a good idea, especially if it is 720p HD video. I can foresee complaints about Youtube and Netflix being flaky and having to reboot the wireless router frequently. Besides, if you’re wiring for power (which the camera needs regardless), you might as well wire for data too.

Thankfully, we managed to avoid using the camera’s wireless function. I asked my Dad to wait, to use the existing four wired cameras first. If he still wishes to have a camera on the detached garage, we can buy another CleverLoop base station with one or more outdoor cameras. So far, no requests for additional cameras from Dad.

Progress Report

After a month of operation, the CleverLoop base station stopped working (no alerts sent and CleverLoop app showed blank video feeds) and had to be rebooted. This is normal. I remember when cable modems and wireless routers first came out, I had to reboot them once a week. Then as they were improved, once a month. Now, several months go by before a reboot is necessary. I expect the same progress for the CleverLoop base station.

Because the CleverLoop app showed blank video feeds, I thought the cameras had stopped working. But it was the base station that had gone kaput. The base station pulls video from the cameras, analyzes the video for motion, and sets alert notifications. The CleverLoop app, in turn, pulls video from the base station. So, if the base station stops working, you get no video and no alerts in the CleverLoop app. Browsing directly to the cameras show all four video feeds working. Surprisingly, all cameras continue to function flawlessly without requiring any reboots.

Tip: The base station is responsible for doing the motion detection and sending the alert notifications. If you don’t get motion detection alerts after arming the system, check that the base station is powered on and connected (blinking LEDs in the back right on top of the ethernet jack).

After 1.5 years, half the cameras would die after a few days and would need to be rebooted. Unfortunately, access to the attic (or going outside to each camera) is required to power cycle the cameras. I thought about pulling wires from the attic down to the house, but that would have been a lot of work. Instead, I installed a Defiant Wireless Indoor/Outdoor Remote Plug in the attic, which allowed us to remotely power cycle the cameras.

Feature Requests

Below are my improvement and feature requests for CleverLoop:

  • The alert and movement video clips to include the previous 5 seconds. The video clips are missing the first few seconds immediately after the motion was detected. (See “pre-buffering” reference above.)
  • CleverLoop app to have a user-only mode where administrative functions like add/remove base station, add/remove camera, and camera settings are not accessible. In the current user interface, my Dad could easily remove the base station, remove a camera, or modify a camera’s settings with some accidental touches.
  • Camera list screen to update snapshot images of all four cameras once per second (or even once per 5-10 seconds). Currently, outdated snapshot images are shown.
  • Like the above, camera screen to update camera’s snapshot image once per second.
  • CleverLoop app to disallow adding a 5th camera to a base station. Even though I have added the maximum 4 cameras, the camera list screen still shows the “Add a New Camera” option.
  • Install CleverLoop app on an iPad. Currently, the iPad’s App Store does not list the CleverLoop app. It would be nice to see a bigger video feed on the iPad.

One feature that I think my Dad might like is to display all four video feeds on his large LED TV. If he ever asks for it, I think I can create an HTML page that shows the video feeds from all four cameras (using Adobe Flash). Run it on a laptop (or tiny desktop) attached to his TV and voila, a security guard’s dream come true!

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Clone a Big Hard Drive to a Smaller One

Windows 2 Comments

I had tried out Windows 10 by installing it on a second, bigger 500GB SSD (Solid State Drive) than my existing Windows 7’s 240GB SSD. Having determined that I wanted to permanently move to Windows 10, I decided to move Windows 10 to the smaller drive, overwriting Windows 7.

026GarfieldFirst, to clone from a bigger to smaller drive requires that the bigger drive not contain more data than can fit into the smaller drive. Second, the bigger drive must not have data stored at a location beyond the maximum supported location on the smaller drive. The safest way to satisfy both requirements is to shrink the source partition to ensure that it will fit 100% onto the hard drive.

Disable BitLocker

Before doing anything, I decided to decrypt the drive by turning Bitlocker off. I had tested cloning a Bitlocker-protected Windows 7 drive but it failed with a blue screen on startup, after getting past the annoying Bitlocker recovery procedure (because the hard drive signature had changed). So, I decided that it would be best to decrypt, clone, and then re-encrypt. Turning Bitlocker off didn’t take too long (about 20 minutes) because my Windows 10 was a fresh install with just Office and some other apps (about 35GB in size).

To turn BitLocker off, run “Manage BitLocker” and select the “Turn off BitLocker” option.

Resize Source Partition

So, here’s how to resize the Windows 10 source partition:

  1. Run Window 10’s “Create and format hard disk partitions” application (aka “Disk Management”).
  2. Right-click on the Windows 10 partition and select “Shrink Volume…”.
  3. Adjust the “Enter the amount of space to shrink in MB” until the “Total size after shrink in MB” is significantly smaller than the target hard drive size. (Because my target hard drive is 240GB, I tried to get the partition below 200GB to be on the safe side. Make sure to account for Windows 10’s two system partitions, a 300MB recovery partition and a 500MB EFI partition.)

There may be an upper limit to how much you can shrink the volume. You will see a text, “You cannot shrink a volume beyond the point where any unmovable files are located”, that explains why. Disk Management cannot move files used by system hibernation, paging, and protection (aka system restore) so it cannot shrink the volume past the furthest located of these files.

Note: If you have a non-SSD hard drive, you will want to run “Disk Defrag” (aka “Defragment and Optimize Drives”) first to consolidate the file locations to the head of the hard drive, before shrinking the partition.

Disable System Services

The solution to allow you to shrink the volume further is to disable system hibernation, paging, and protection first.

  • Disable Hibernation
    1. Click on Start, type “Command Prompt”, right-click on it and select “Run as administrator”.
    2. In the Command Prompt, type “powercfg /h off” to turn Hibernation off.
  • Disable Paging
    1. Run “View advanced system settings” to open the “System Properties” dialog, make sure the Advanced tab is selected, and click on the “Settings” button in the Performance section.
    2. Under the Advanced tab in the “Performance Options” dialog, click on the “Change…” button.
    3. Select “No paging file” and click the Set button. (We will need to reboot for this change to take effect.)
  • Disable System Protection
    1. Run “View advanced system settings” to open the “System Properties” dialog and select the “System Protection” tab.
    2. Select the C:\ drive and click on the “Configure…” button.
    3. Check the “Disable system protection” box and click OK. Answer Yes.

Once you have disabled the system services above, reboot (so the paging change can take effect), and repeat the Disk Management steps above to shrink the Windows 10 partition. You should be able to shrink the volume smaller than the destination drive’s size. (If you have more data on the source drive than can be contained by the target drive, you will need to uninstall and/or delete things from the source drive.)

CloneZilla the Drives

We have to use CloneZilla in expert mode (instead of beginner mode) in order to configure it to allow cloning from a bigger to a smaller drive.

Follow the first set of instructions at Clone a Hard Drive Using Clonezilla Live to create a bootable USB flash drive containing the latest version of Clonezilla Live.

Then follow the revised instructions below to clone the drives. (Steps 1 thru 7 are the same. In Step 8, we select “Expert mode” instead of “Beginner mode”.)

  1. Attach the destination drive to the same machine containing the source drive.
  2. Start the machine and boot from the USB flash drive. You may need to press a particular function key to load the boot menu (F12 on my Lenovo desktop) or you may need to adjust the BIOS setup to boot from a USB drive before the hard drive. (If you get offered Legacy or UEFI bootup options for the USB flash drive, choose UEFI.)
  3. On Clonezilla Live’s startup screen, keep the default “Clonezilla live (Default settings, VGA 800×600)” and press Enter.
  4. Press Enter to accept the pre-selected language, “en_US.UTF-8 English”.
  5. Keep the default “Don’t touch keymap” and press Enter.
  6. Make sure “Start_Clonezilla” is selected and press Enter to start.
  7. Because I am copying from one hard drive to another, I select the “device-device work directly from a disk or partition to a disk or partition” option. Press Enter.
  8. Change to “Expert mode” option and press Enter.clonezilla_expert
  9. Keep the first “disk_to_local_disk” option and press Enter.
  10. Select the source drive and press Enter.
  11. Select the target destination drive and press Enter.
  12. Check the “-icds Skip checking destination disk size before creating partition table” flag and press Enter.clonezilla_icds
  13. Keep the default “Skip checking/repairing source file system” selection and press Enter.
  14. Select the “-k1 Create partition table proportionally” flag and press Enter.clonezilla_k1
  15. Type “y” and press Enter to acknowledge the warning that all data on the destination hard drive will be destroyed.
  16. Type “y” and press Enter a second time to indicate that you are really sure.
  17. In answer to the question “do you want to clone the boot loader”, type uppercase “Y” and press Enter. (I need to clone the boot loader so the destination hard drive will be bootable like the source hard drive.)
  18. The hard drive cloning will occur.
  19. When the cloning completes, press Enter to continue.
  20. Select “poweroff” to shut down the machine.
  21. Once the machine is off, remove the source drive and boot from the destination drive. (Or use the boot menu to select the destination drive.)

Thankfully, CloneZilla automatically increase the size of the Windows 10 partition on the destination drive to take up the remaining available free space. (If CloneZilla didn’t increase the partition size for you, you can use the “Extend Volume…” function in “Disk Management” to grow the partition size manually.)

Re-enable System Services

Once you are certain that Windows 10 is working successfully off the smaller drive, you can re-enable the system hibernation, paging, and protection.

  • Enable Hibernation
    1. Click on Start, type “Command Prompt”, right-click on it and select “Run as administrator”.
    2. In the Command Prompt, type “powercfg /h on” to turn Hibernation on.
  • Enable Paging
    1. Run “View advanced system settings” to open the “System Properties” dialog, make sure the Advanced tab is selected, and click on the “Settings” button in the Performance section.
    2. Under the Advanced tab in the “Performance Options” dialog, click on the “Change…” button.
    3. Select “Automatically manage paging file size for all drives” at the top and click the OK button. (We will need to reboot for this change to take effect.)
  • Enable System Protection
    1. Run “View advanced system settings” to open the “System Properties” dialog and select the “System Protection” tab.
    2. Select the C:\ drive and click on the “Configure…” button.
    3. Check the “Turn on system protection” box and click OK.

Re-enable BitLocker

If you want to, re-encrypt the hard drive by turning Bitlocker on. Run “Manage BitLocker” and select the “Turn on BitLocker” option. (I don’t recommend choosing the option to encrypt the entire drive, instead of the used disk space only, unless you want to make sure that no one can recover deleted files. Encrypting the entire drive takes significantly more time, depending upon the amount of free disk space.)

If BitLocker didn’t already ask you to reboot, do a reboot to ensure that the paging change above takes effect.

Note: If you leave the source drive attached, it won’t show up in Windows 10’s File Explorer. Run “Disk Management” and you will see that the source drive’s status is “Offline (The disk is offline because it has a signature collision with another disk that is online)”. To make the source drive visible and accessible, right-click on the source drive’s label (“Disk 1” in my case) and select Online.

CloneZilla Didn’t Work!

I tried using CloneZilla to clone my laptop’s HDD (Hard Disk Drive) to a smaller SSD. Unfortunately, CloneZilla threw an error, “Write block error: no space left on device”. Even though it then completed the cloning process, my laptop was not able to boot off the resulting SSD.

Instead, I attached the laptop HDD and SSD to my desktop and ran the free version of EaseUS Partition Master on my desktop to successfully clone from the laptop HDD to the SSD. Here is what I did:

  1. Install EaseUS Partition Master Free Edition, run it, and click “Launch Application”.
  2. Select the source disk (in the right-hand panel listing all the disks), right-click and choose “Copy disk”. (Alternatively, you can run menu Wizard, “Clone disk wizard”, and select the source disk.)
  3. After the wizard finishes analyzing the source disk, click Next.
  4. Select the destination disk. Next.
  5. Choose the “Delete partitions on the destination hard disk” option. Next.
  6. The wizard should select the same sizes for the destination partitions as the source partition’s (except for the last partition, which should be the Windows partition, if the hard drive sizes are different).
    • On a MBR (Master Boot Record) disk, you should have two partitions, a tiny System partition and a large Windows partition. On a GPT (GUID Partition Table) disk, you will have one or two other tiny system or reserved partitions.
    • Note: The wizard had a problem selecting the destination partition sizes for my laptop’s SSD. It increased the 1GB System partition to 100GB. I had to drag to resize the System partition to a value closed to 1GB (couldn’t get it exactly the same) and increase the Windows partition size accordingly (to eliminate the Unallocated space).
    • If you drag the partition to a small enough size, you won’t be able to see the text inside showing the size. Just rest your mouse pointer on the partition and a popup text will appear with the size info.
  7. Once you are satisfied with the sizes, click Next and Finish. The Partition Master’s disk info will change to reflect the changes you made.
  8. Click the top-left Apply button to make those changes take effect.

If you don’t have a second Windows machine to do the above, you can do a self-migration of Windows 10 from the current disk to another disk using the EaseUS Todo Backup Free Edition. Run it and click the top-right Clone button. More instructions can be found at How to Migrate Windows 10 from HDD to SSD?

Most info above derived from:


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