How to Sell a Used Computer Like a Car Salesman

Hardware 2 Comments

A normal Craigslist transaction is quick. You establish your interest and confirm the price, place, and time to meet. You meet. The seller hands you the item. If it is electronics, you take a few minutes to test out the functions. You hand over the cash. Shake hands and then leave. 5-10 minutes maximum.

In early May, my sister asked me to buy a desktop computer for her. Her budget was $100, which is
totally doable for a used Core i5 desktop.

I found one, a Dell Optiplex 790 with Core i5, on craigslist advertised for $115. I negotiated it down to $100 by text messages. The ad didn’t say anything about a business so I figured it was a private seller.

The address I was given was mapped to the All Green Recycling Center in Tustin, CA. Some sellers do arrange meetings at their work location so I thought nothing of it. When I showed up, it turned out that the business was selling it.

The sales person who met me in the unoccupied reception area was Maria. She told me that someone showed up 5 minutes before me and purchased the computer I wanted. However, they did have another computer with the same specs, but with a 1TB hard drive instead of a 500GB one. The price was $150.

I told her that $150 was quite a stretch from $100 just for a bigger used hard drive. She said she would talk to her manager and disappeared behind the interior office door. 10 minutes later, she appeared. This initiated the trend where she would claim to need to do something and then disappear for 10-15 minutes at a time. Similar to how car salesmen would disappear for long stretches of time in order to wear the customer down.

Once Maria came back, she said that the lowest price they could do was $130… she paused for a few seconds and then said $120.

I’m not sure what that was about. Was she trying to anchor me at $130 so $120 would sound like a great deal? Or did her manager tell her to start at $130 and only go down to $120 at the lowest? Was she my best friend or my worst enemy?

All I heard was $120. I told her I didn’t really want the bigger hard drive, but $120 was doable if they would throw in the used wireless card that she had indicated were available in the text messages. She said she would ask her manager and disappeared once more.

10 minutes later, Maria appeared and said that they didn’t have a wireless card. I asked her if they could just change the hard drive to a smaller one. She replied that they didn’t do customization, so changing the hard drive was impossible. That the lowest price was $120 and that was it.

I told her, okay, let’s do it. She disappeared for 15 minutes and came back with the desktop. Then she said the price was $131 with tax. I gave her my credit card and ID and then she disappeared again. 10 minutes passed. I thought, how long does it take to charge a credit card and print a receipt? Was she 3D printing a copy of my credit card?

I had time to think and it occurred to me that I was overpaying. $131 was 30% above my sister’s $100 budget. I could have purchased the same desktop off of ebay for $100-$110 with free shipping, and not have had to deal with this very slow, horrible bait-n-switch experience.

I opened the interior office door, flagged down an employee, and asked him to tell Maria to abort the transaction. We didn’t want to buy after all.

I think Maria’s manager overheard because he came out of his office and asked what was going on. I told him that we had agreed by text on the price of $100, but that when I came, they didn’t have the computer I wanted. Instead they had another computer which was more expensive. And now, I decided not to do the deal after all. The manager was concerned and asked me to confirm twice that an agreement was reached before I showed up. He asked me to wait while he went to find Maria.

Within a couple of minutes, Maria appeared and said that they would swap out the 1TB hard drive for a 500GB drive and charge the originally agreed upon price of $100. Looks like you do do customization, I thought. She gave me my credit card and ID back. She promised it would only take a few minutes to swap the drive (which I doubted) and then took the desktop back in.

By this time, I had been there for almost an hour. I think the slow, horrible service is Maria. I don’t know what her deal is but she seems very incompetent at her job. Awfully slow for no apparent reason that I could see. The other employees seemed more friendly and competent because when they saw me waiter, they all immediately asked if I was being helped.

So I waited 15 minutes and still no Maria. Surely it wouldn’t take more than 5 minutes to swap a hard drive; were they also re-installing Windows 10 or something? Finally, another employee came and asked if I was being helped. I told him Maria was helping me, that I had come to buy a computer, and that it had been more than an hour. He looked surprised and said he would find Maria to see what was going on.

A couple of minutes later, Maria appeared with the desktop. Was she just hiding somewhere with the desktop and only came because a coworker found her? Like a golem.

She asked if I got an invoice? Ugh, I told her that I didn’t. I asked her if she had charged my card? She said no. I wanted to ask why she gave me back my credit card and than waited until after the hard drive was swapped before asking if she had given me an invoice. What if I had said yes and left without paying? At this point, I decided that she was not all together there. I asked her if she needed my credit card and ID, she said yes, and I gave them to her.

She left. I waited 10 minutes. Still no sign of Maria. Again, how long does it take to charge and print an invoice? Evidently for Maria, longer than 10 minutes. Finally, she appeared with the invoice.
Thankfully, the torture was over.

The business did not offer an option to boot up the desktop. However, they did offer a 90 day warranty. When I got to my sister’s, I tested the desktop. It booted up to Windows 10 fine. The only problem was the DVD drive didn’t open. Sighed. My sister said she would take it back for a drive replacement or repair. I warned her to avoid Maria; anyone else would be preferable.

That was a horrible experience. My subsequent craigslist transactions have involved filtering out all businesses. Even then, I needed to double-check because some businesses masqueraded as private sellers.

If you want to find out how buying a used computer can be as horrible as buying a used car, look up Maria.


Outdoor Home Video Surveillance With CleverLoop

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candace_flynnMy Dad was concerned. He thought he heard noises from the backyard and maybe saw some movement there at night. My Dad grows fruit trees and vegetables, which might attract intruders. His neighborhood is not the safest place; his house had recently been burglarized. He wanted a way to check that the perimeter was safe before leaving the house. The obvious answer, besides moving away, was an outdoor video surveillance system.

After days of research, I settled on the CleverLoop Smart Home Security System. CleverLoop is expensive. I could get video systems (especially coaxial ones) with more cameras for significantly less. However, my primary concern is usability. My Dad is going to use it so it has to be very easy to use.

CleverLoop’s selling point is usability, implemented by their mobile user interface and smart backend (a base station device is included with the cameras). They admit that their cameras are the same generic ones made in China as the other video surveillance systems use. Hardware is not what CleverLoop is competing on, it is software. CleverLoop’s mobile phone app (for iPhone or Android) looked to be more user friendly and feature rich than the competitors’ versions.

Here is how CleverLoop did against my selection criteria, in prioritized order:

  1. User-friendly interface – CleverLoop mobile phone app looks easy to use
  2. Accessible from anywhere over Internet – Dad wanted to check the video feeds when he is away from the house
  3. Decent video quality – CleverLoop can support 720p HD (High Definition)
  4. Night vision mode – automatic IR (infrared) night vision
  5. Motion detection and alerts – CleverLoop’s base station handles this
  6. No monthly fee – free CleverLoop plan includes multiple users and backs up alerts to the cloud for 7 days
  7. Wireless – all CleverLoop cameras are wireless, but we ended up not using this function

When I was researching, CleverLoop was selling a kit containing 3 outdoor cameras. At the time, the base station only supported 3 cameras. This was a problem because a house is usually square shaped and I needed 4 cameras to cover the 4 sides. Thankfully, when I was ready to buy, CleverLoop offered a kit containing 4 outdoor cameras. A camera at each corner of the house looking down each side will cover the whole perimeter of the house, albeit with blind spots under each camera. I supposed that they had updated the base station software to support 4 cameras, instead of 3.

What to Buy

Before purchasing an outdoor video surveillance system, you must decide on the type of wiring because that is the hardest part of the installation. I had decided that the most future proof wiring is PoE (Power over Ethernet) Cat6 (Category 6) Ethernet cable. PoE reduces installation to running just one cable conveying both power and data. The Cat6 Ethernet cable will support higher data rates for when more powerful cameras become available. If I use a coaxial or non-PoE Ethernet cable, I would need to run a second cable for the power. Trust me on using a PoE cable, because you don’t want to have to drill a second extra hole through two or more plywood layers (common for exterior walls).

While CleverLoop does not support PoE, there is a way to simulate it. Basically, use adapters, passive PoE injectors and splitters, to feed both data (non-PoE Ethernet cable) and power through the “PoE” Ethernet cable. To protect the PoE adapters from the elements, you can use an outdoor electrical outlet cover box. This very helpful Youtube video, Installing CleverLoop Outdoor IP Camera, was my installation bible. CleverLoop has a support page, Powering an outdoor camera using Power-over-Ethernet (PoE), that references the video along with useful pictures of the PoE injector and splitter wiring.

In addition to ordering the CleverLoop Security System with 4 Outdoor Cameras, I purchased the following for the installation:

  • 500 ft of Cat6 Ethernet Cable (from Amazon). I think I used 100-150 feet at best.
  • 100 Cat6 RJ45 cable connectors (from Amazon). Maybe used a dozen.
  • RJ45 Crimp, Cut, and Strip Tool (from Amazon). Used to cut the Cat6 Ethernet cable and crimp the RJ45 connectors onto the cable ends.
  • 4 Passive PoE Injector and Splitter Kits with 5.5×2.1mm DC Connector (from Amazon). Double-check that the splitters and injectors have 5.5×2.1mm DC connectors because that is what CleverLoop cameras use.
  • 4 Weatherproof Outlet Covers (from Home Depot; Bell Outdoor Weatherproof In-Use Cover for $8.44 each). Get the 2 inches thick cover, not the 1 inch thick cover; you’ll need the extra space to hold the PoE splitter, Cat6 Ethernet cable, and CleverLoop Ethernet data and power cables.

cleverloop_outlet_coverI ordered way more Cat6 Ethernet cable and RJ45 connectors than I needed. You can safely order much less, depending upon the size of your house.

If I had to do the installation again, I would also purchase a Network Cable RJ45 Tester (like this one from Amazon). The tester can determine whether the RJ45 connectors are crimped onto the ends of the Ethernet cable correctly or not. Instead, I used an Internet-enabled router and my Macbook to test the cable, which was very inconvenient.

Besides the above, you will probably need a power drill with a long drill bit (one foot or longer). The external frame on my Dad’s house under the roof line (where we placed the cameras) consisted of two 2×6 planks with an inch spacing between. The long drill bit was necessary to punch an Ethernet cable-sized hole all the way through.

Drill, Baby, Drill

After everything arrived, I reserved a weekend to complete the installation. The idea was to run the Cat6 Ethernet cables in the attic and drill holes from the attic to the outside at each corner of the house. I didn’t look forward to working in the hot and dirty attic. Thankfully, my older brother volunteered to do the cabling and drilling.

It took my brother the better part of the first day to drill the necessary holes and to run the cables, though with a long break in the middle. He had to drive home to get his 1.5 feet long drill bit and disposable coveralls (for getting into tight, dirty corners filled with insulation) once he realized both were necessary.

I crimped the RJ45 connectors onto the ends of the Cat6 Ethernet cables and tested them; I only had to redo 5 connectors. When installing the RJ45 connectors, the sequence of color wires needs to be the same at both ends. I found this page, Making Ethernet Cables – Tricks of the Trade, helpful and followed the sequence of colors that he used to make a straight through Ethernet cable.

On the second day, my brother mounted the cameras and outlet covers (containing the PoE splitters, assorted Ethernet cables, and CleverLoop power cables). Because the drilled holes, cameras and outlet covers were located under the eaves, he did not bother to waterproof the drilled holes (the Ethernet cables fit the holes quite snuggly). He also didn’t bother arranging drip loops for all the cables coming to and leaving from the outlet covers.

In the attic, the Cat6 Ethernet cables from each camera met at a point above where my Dad’s Internet router was located. We tried to run a Cat6 Ethernet cable down the wall to the router, but a horizonal wood frame member prevented it. Makes no sense; who would put a solid, horizontal plank of wood in the middle of an interior wall? (Even fish tape would not have helped in this scenario!) We ended up drilling a hole in the ceiling close to the wall and running the Cat6 Ethernet cable down the wall to the router. It’s a little ugly, but the alternative, ripping out the dry wall, is even more undesirable.

Good thing I had a spare 5-port Ethernet switch; otherwise, I would have had to purchase one. In the attic, I connected all the camera’s Cat6 Ethernet cables to the switch and then the switch to the Internet router. Thankfully the attic had an outlet sockets nearby because I needed to plug in all the CleverLoop cameras’ power bricks (I used two power strips) and connect them to the PoE injectors, and then the PoE injectors to the Cat6 Ethernet cables. In the end, I ended up with a rat’s nest of cables, PoE injectors, and power bricks. I put the whole pile on a sheet of wood to prevent any contact with the attic’s insulation material.

Tip: I recommend running all the Cat6 Ethernet cables down into your air conditioned house. During the summer, the attic becomes so hot that I’m concerned that the Ethernet switch and power bricks may not last long.

Unfortunately, the cameras did not have any power indicators. (Though, if it was at night, I might have been able to see the IR LEDs light up.) Even worse, the camera took up to 5 minutes to come online (for it to be accessible by IP address) and to start streaming video. (The CleverLoop manual says it takes 90 seconds to boot up the camera.) Initially, I thought that the passive PoE injectors and splitters didn’t work because the Cat6 Ethernet cables were too long (one ran over 50 feet in length). I re-tested the longest Cat6 Ethernet cable and double-checked that there were no loose connections. Thankfully, one camera’s IP address appeared on my router’s client list (minutes had past during my debugging) and slowly the rest came online. Everything was fine; I just needed to be patient.

CleverLoop App

I connected the CleverLoop base station directly to the router. I installed the CleverLoop app onto my iPhone, created an account, and scanned the QR code at the bottom of the base station. In the CleverLoop app, I added the four cameras and started seeing their video streams (have to view each camera and click the play icon).

Now that we could see what the cameras were seeing, my brother made final adjustments to the cameras’ positions with my Dad’s input. Be careful when adjusting the positioning screws! Because the camera case is plastic, too much force could easily strip the screw holes. My brother did strip one of the positioning screw holes. He fixed it by screwing in an even larger screw.

When it got dark, the cameras automatically switched to black-and-white IR night vision mode. I was impressed by the night vision; I was able to see pretty far and the video was clearer than expected.

In the morning, one camera had an “Access Denied” error. And a second camera was still stuck in black-and-white IR mode. Rebooting the two cameras, removing and re-adding them did not fix the problem. As common with software, it turned out the cameras needed firmware updates to eliminate these and other bugs.

Tip: To reboot a camera, I can open up the camera’s outlet cover and disconnect the camera’s power cord from the PoE splitter. This is a lot easier than going into the attic, locating the particular camera’s Cat6 Ethernet cable and disconnecting its power plug from the PoE injector.

Per the CleverLoop support page, Check your camera firmware version (For X series indoor camera and outdoor camera only), I upgraded all the cameras’ firmwares to the latest recommended version. Note that you cannot upgrade directly to the latest version, you must upgrade incrementally. For example, I upgraded from version to, and then from to (latest version).

Upgrading to the latest firmware fixed both the “Access Denied” and stuck in black-and-white IR mode errors. And then 10 minutes after the upgrades, all cameras went offline (inaccessible by the CleverLoop app or browser). I had to power all cameras off and on to get them back. So, I recommend that you always manually reboot the camera after a firmware update.

Tip: You can browse to the camera’s IP address and view its video feed in the browser. The default username and password is “admin” and “123456”. On my Chrome browser running on Windows 7, I had to select “view video -Mode 2” (which uses Adobe Flash) to see the streaming video feed. Selecting “view video -Mode 1” (which uses “application/x-hyplayer” and QuickTime Player) did not work.

Video Quality

By default, the cameras are set to stream SD (Standard Definition 480p or 640×480 pixels) video quality. On a smartphone’s small screen, SD video looks pretty sharp. I did enable the 720p HD video on the cameras and only saw a slight improvement in quality on my iPhone 5’s tiny screen (it could be my imagination). I was more concerned about overwhelming the Internet connection’s upload bandwidth (for streaming over the Internet) so I changed it back to SD quality. So far, no complaints about video quality from Dad, who uses an iPhone 6 Plus.

Multiple Users

When I first installed the CleverLoop app, CleverLoop allowed multiple users to log in using the same account. So both my Dad and my sister (who lives with our father and has an Android phone) used the same account. A month later, that was no longer allowed. Logging into an account would log out anyone currently logged into that account. My sister had to create a new Cleverloop account and then add the base station (by scanning the QR code at the bottom of the base station). Thankfully, she didn’t need to re-add the cameras.

I think that CleverLoop disallowed account sharing in order to better support the Geo-Fencing function (automatically arms the motion detection system when your smartphone leaves the home location). However, because my Dad wanted alerts regardless of whether he was home or not, I had disabled the Geo-Fencing feature.

Alerts vs Movements

At first, I was confused by the movement and alert notifications. After reading up on it, I learned that we needed to train the base station to distinguished between harmless movements (like a branch waving in the wind) and important alerts (an intruder at the door). We are expected to view the video clip attached to each notification. And if we don’t agree with the classification (movement or alert), we can inform the system so by clicking on the “This should be an alert/movement” text at the bottom of the video feed.

cleverloop_motion_detectionTo eliminate the clutter caused by many notifications, you can manually delete the alerts and movements. There is a delete button that you can press when viewing the movement or alert. Additionally, there is an batch action (the top-right pencil icon when viewing a particular camera) that allows you to select multiple notifications for removal.

You can fine-tune the motion detection by marking areas of the video feed for analysis. Go to camera settings (the top-right gear icon when viewing a particular camera) and select “Fine-tune Smart Detection”. You can create up to 3 rectangular areas (a.k.a. hotspots) for motion detection and analysis. The parts of the video outside of the hotspots are not analyzed.

One major problem I see with the motion detection video clips is that the first few seconds are not shown. So, if you have someone who enters the video feed and exits quickly, the video clip won’t show that person. For example, when someone comes to the front door, drops off a package, and leaves, all I see in the video clip is a part of his back or his shadow as he is leaving. This is a known problem with a known solution called video pre-buffering. Basically, the system records continuously and when motion is detected, the generated video clip includes the previous 5-10 seconds. Hopefully, the CleverLoop base station will be updated to do pre-buffering soon.

Wireless Not Needed

When my Dad first asked about video surveillance for the backyard, he mentioned putting a camera on the detached garage and pointing it at the back of the house. Because I didn’t want to run an Ethernet cable from the house to the detached garage, I decided that a wireless camera was a necessary requirement.

Given a choice, I would prefer to avoid a wireless solution. Having a camera constantly streaming video across a wireless connection does not sound like a good idea, especially if it is 720p HD video. I can foresee complaints about Youtube and Netflix being flaky and having to reboot the wireless router frequently. Besides, if you’re wiring for power (which the camera needs regardless), you might as well wire for data too.

Thankfully, we managed to avoid using the camera’s wireless function. I asked my Dad to wait, to use the existing four wired cameras first. If he still wishes to have a camera on the detached garage, we can buy another CleverLoop base station with one or more outdoor cameras. So far, no requests for additional cameras from Dad.

Progress Report

After a month of operation, the CleverLoop base station stopped working (no alerts sent and CleverLoop app showed blank video feeds) and had to be rebooted. This is normal. I remember when cable modems and wireless routers first came out, I had to reboot them once a week. Then as they were improved, once a month. Now, several months go by before a reboot is necessary. I expect the same progress for the CleverLoop base station.

Because the CleverLoop app showed blank video feeds, I thought the cameras had stopped working. But it was the base station that had gone kaput. The base station pulls video from the cameras, analyzes the video for motion, and sets alert notifications. The CleverLoop app, in turn, pulls video from the base station. So, if the base station stops working, you get no video and no alerts in the CleverLoop app. Browsing directly to the cameras show all four video feeds working. Surprisingly, all cameras continue to function flawlessly without requiring any reboots.

Tip: The base station is responsible for doing the motion detection and sending the alert notifications. If you don’t get motion detection alerts after arming the system, check that the base station is powered on and connected (blinking LEDs in the back right on top of the ethernet jack).

Feature Requests

Below are my improvement and feature requests for CleverLoop:

  • The alert and movement video clips to include the previous 5 seconds. The video clips are missing the first few seconds immediately after the motion was detected. (See “pre-buffering” reference above.)
  • CleverLoop app to have a user-only mode where administrative functions like add/remove base station, add/remove camera, and camera settings are not accessible. In the current user interface, my Dad could easily remove the base station, remove a camera, or modify a camera’s settings with some accidental touches.
  • Camera list screen to update snapshot images of all four cameras once per second (or even once per 5-10 seconds). Currently, outdated snapshot images are shown.
  • Like the above, camera screen to update camera’s snapshot image once per second.
  • CleverLoop app to disallow adding a 5th camera to a base station. Even though I have added the maximum 4 cameras, the camera list screen still shows the “Add a New Camera” option.
  • Install CleverLoop app on an iPad. Currently, the iPad’s App Store does not list the CleverLoop app. It would be nice to see a bigger video feed on the iPad.

One feature that I think my Dad might like is to display all four video feeds on his large LED TV. If he ever asks for it, I think I can create an HTML page that shows the video feeds from all four cameras (using Adobe Flash). Run it on a laptop (or tiny desktop) attached to his TV and voila, a security guard’s dream come true!

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The Sunroof From Heck

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jettafronttubewater.jpgThree years ago, I went on vacation. I left my Volkswagen Jetta, not yet one year old at the time, at my parents for a week. During that time, there were heavy rains. When I came back, the left-front driver foot well was under three inches of water. I was sure that I had locked the doors securely before leaving… and all the windows, including sunroof, were closed tightly. What could be the matter? Maybe it was a leak somewhere on the driver side?

A wet vac, a lot of effort, and the problem was mostly solved, except for the unpleasant wet carpet smell which lingered before disappearing. Being a procrastinator, I never did take the car to the dealer to find the leak.

Since then, rains have come and gone. Unless the rains were heavy, I didn’t see any moisture in the cabin. But when the heavy rains came, the water appeared in the front driver foot well. I checked the driver-side door but didn’t see any wet trail. I couldn’t figure it out.

Recently, during some heavy rains, I noticed that the front right passenger foot well was also accumulating water. What the heck? Did my Jetta just spring another leak? I resolved to get down to the root of the problem; I went to the Internet and found complaints about the sunroofs from all cars including Acura, Mercedes, and Volkswagen (bingo!).

jettafronttube.jpgEvidently, the sunroofs are not water-tight. Water does get into and accumulate in the well of the sunroof. The water is usually drained away by tubes. If the tubes get clogged or disconnected, then the water builds up, eventually floods into the roof structure, and appears in the main cabin in several places. Supposedly once a year, you should check that sunroof drainage tubes and clear any blockage.

I cracked open the trusty Jetta owner’s manual; it didn’t mentioned anything about the above. What the heck? How many drivers out there are wondering why their brand new car with sunroof starts leaking after a year or two?

On the Jetta, there are four drainage tubes, one at each corner of the sunroof. The front two tubes come out in the middle of both sides, near the front door hinges. The rear two tubes comes out underneath both sides near the rear bumper. Now, why the front two doesn’t come out underneath, I have no idea. Worse, there are nipples at the end of each of the four tubes… I guess to promote clogging?

jettareartube.jpgOthers recommend cutting the nipples off, but I took the less severe method of squeezing the nipples to make them open wide. Pouring water into the sunroof and then squeezing the nipples caused all sorts of particles, some big and some small, to come out, followed by a torrent of freed water. Yippee! Now, I just need to remember to do this once or twice a year.

If you don’t have time to do the above, another quick fix is to use painter’s tape (aka masking tape) to seal all four edges of the sunroof.

Update: A couple of years later, Volkswagen issued a safety recall concerning this issue. The solution was to cut the rubber nipples off.

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Disable Volkswagen Jetta Daylight Running Lights

Hardware 5 Comments

The later Volkswagen Jettas come with headlights always on by default; this feature is called daylight running lights (DRL). Unfortunately, DRL lowers the lifetime of the headlights and lowers the gas mileage (just a wee bit). This hack will disable the DRL only and leave the rest of the headlight functions alone. (Click on the picture to get a larger version.)

1. Push the light switch (just the smaller inside circle part) in and turn clockwise. This will unlock it and allow it to pop out. The outer circle is not moveable. jetta_drl1.jpg
2. Once the switch is unlocked, you can simply pull it out and disconnect the wiring plug. jetta_drl2.jpg
3. Once the wiring harness is loose, flip it around so you can see the wires going into the back. jetta_drl3.jpg
4. The wire you want to remove is #3 (third from the left). Just pull out the #3 wire and tape the metal end of the loose wire up (you can use transparent tape) to prevent electrical shorts. jetta_drl4.jpg
5. Finally, rebuild the switch in the reverse order.

Note: This info is replicated from another website with my own comments added.


Fry’s Electronics: The Store From BORG

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7of9After getting a used Adaptec AHA-2940UW adapter card, I found that I needed a 68pin to 50pin external converter. The catch was that the converter had to actively terminate the “high data byte” (upper 8bits on a wide SCSI connection).

So I went to the local Fry’s Electronics to look for a converter or a cable. I found a 68pin to 50pin cable for $36, except the package didn’t say whether the high data byte was terminated or not. I waited at the help desk until one of the workers couldn’t ignore me anymore.

Me: “So, do you know a lot about SCSI?”
Worker mutters something under his breath.
Me: “Excuse me?”
Worker: “Yes, I know a LOT about SCSI.”
Me: “Can you tell me if this 68pin to 50pin cable terminates the upper 8bit path?”
Worker: “Ugh, let me get my supervisor.”
Worker grabs passing supervisor.
Me: “Do you know if this 68pin to 50pin cable terminates the upper 8bit path?”
Supervisor: “No.”
Me: “Can you look it up in the computer?”
Supervisor: “No.”

For trekkers, the conversion in BORG would sound like:

Human: “So, do you know a lot about SCSI?”
Drone: “We are BORG!”
Human: “Can you tell me if this 68pin to 50pin cable terminates the upper 8bit path?”
Drone: “… Bleep!” (drone freezes)
Tertiary Adjunct approaches and dismantles drone.
Adjunct: “We are BORG!”
Human: “Do you know if this 68pin to 50pin cable terminates the upper 8bit path?”
Adjunct: “… You will be assimilated.”
Human: “Doesn’t anyone in the collective know?”
Adjunct: “Resistance is futile.”

I bought the cable, took it home, it didn’t work, went back, stood in line, got a refund. Assimilation complete.

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Wire an Ethernet RJ45 Crossover and Two-Line Phone

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Just buy a normal Ethernet RJ45 8-wire pass-thru adapter (about $2 from Fry’s Electronics), pop it open, and swap wires numbered 1 with 3 and 2 with 6. The result is a crossover ethernet adapter.


If you have a two-Wire telephone (old-school) and wish to get it working, you might need to cross wire the two 4-wire telephone lines.


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